I guess I know him :person_facepalming: .
He got those 3500K from somewhere else, not me. I have never interested in 219B series, so forgive my ignorance.
^ Must be using a UV pump, because grow lights are full spectrum, including UV and some (near) IR.
Efficiency for the visible part of the spectrum will probably suffer.
Clemence, any chance youāll be selling the Noctigon 4XP 33mm in the near future? I really want a D4S in 4000k nichia but I donāt entirely trust my stovestop reflow skills for such a high power setup. Iāll do it if I have to but would rather pay to get it done properly.
I will slowly leave 3535 LED off my future projects. The easiest way is to order from Hank and send it to my address so I can solder it for you. But if you want to learn and experiment, itās actually very easy to do. Rather than spending money to ship it to me
Leave 3535??? Oh no thatās bad news! I was hoping you would probably bring more surprises in the most common form factor. Maybe more āEā tint bin 219C for example.
Donāt worry, Iāll bring āanother 3535ā for you guys, soon. Fell in love with E21A and now E17A.
CSP LEDs freed you from the constraints normally we face with packaged LEDs
Thanks. Iāll just grab some LEDs before they vanish then. I have reflowed two triples on the stove which work ok but Iām never confident that the result is optimal (amount of solder and all).
Put a blob of paste covering all the pads. Sn63/Pb37 is the easiest to work with. 200Ā°C is all it takes to completely wet and melt (the melting point is 187Ā°C)
Place the LED, press it slowly so all the contact pads wetted by the solder paste.
Place it on the hot plate. Heat it slowly at approx. 1Ā°C/second.
Let the paste melt while slowly wiggle the LED with soft tweezer (I use sharpened chopsticks). I donāt like to tap/press the LED.
Move the LED 2/3 away from the correct position and suck the excess solder using soldering vacuum pump or solder wick.
Place it back to the correct position. I always use minimal solder whenever possible. When the LED āspringing backā by the solder tension, that means thereās still too much solder beneath the LED - suck it off again.
Fine tune the position once again.
Let the soldered MCPCB cools at the same pace as it heat.
Soak it in warm IPA for several kinutes, clean the flux residue using soft toothbrush.