That sound nice! Never seen them, but Iād be in for that.
I guess I know him :person_facepalming: .
He got those 3500K from somewhere else, not me. I have never interested in 219B series, so forgive my ignorance.
- Clemence
Hmmmā¦ 3500K 219B 9080 sounds deliciousā¦ :heart_eyes:
According to LEDRISE, they can still get the NVSL219B-V1 9080 219B from 3000k all the way to 4500k from Nichia but their MOQ is āone full rollā.
[quote=clemence]
What is that something else? 
Care to share or is it meant as a surprise for us??
[quote=SKV89]
Hint: you asked one of my surprises before. Donāt worry, Iāll give you a head start later.
- Clemence
Cant wait to see these in the story. Will have to try them if just to collect them allā¦
^ Must be using a UV pump, because grow lights are full spectrum, including UV and some (near) IR.
Efficiency for the visible part of the spectrum will probably suffer.
Clemence, any chance youāll be selling the Noctigon 4XP 33mm in the near future? I really want a D4S in 4000k nichia but I donāt entirely trust my stovestop reflow skills for such a high power setup. Iāll do it if I have to but would rather pay to get it done properly.
I will slowly leave 3535 LED off my future projects. The easiest way is to order from Hank and send it to my address so I can solder it for you. But if you want to learn and experiment, itās actually very easy to do. Rather than spending money to ship it to me
- Clemence
Leave 3535??? Oh no thatās bad news! I was hoping you would probably bring more surprises in the most common form factor. Maybe more āEā tint bin 219C for example.
Donāt worry, Iāll bring āanother 3535ā for you guys, soon. Fell in love with E21A and now E17A.
CSP LEDs freed you from the constraints normally we face with packaged LEDs
- Clemence
Thanks. Iāll just grab some LEDs before they vanish then. I have reflowed two triples on the stove which work ok but Iām never confident that the result is optimal (amount of solder and all).
Easier if you use excess solder paste.
- Put a blob of paste covering all the pads. Sn63/Pb37 is the easiest to work with. 200Ā°C is all it takes to completely wet and melt (the melting point is 187Ā°C)
- Place the LED, press it slowly so all the contact pads wetted by the solder paste.
- Place it on the hot plate. Heat it slowly at approx. 1Ā°C/second.
- Let the paste melt while slowly wiggle the LED with soft tweezer (I use sharpened chopsticks). I donāt like to tap/press the LED.
- Move the LED 2/3 away from the correct position and suck the excess solder using soldering vacuum pump or solder wick.
- Place it back to the correct position. I always use minimal solder whenever possible. When the LED āspringing backā by the solder tension, that means thereās still too much solder beneath the LED - suck it off again.
- Fine tune the position once again.
- Let the soldered MCPCB cools at the same pace as it heat.
- Soak it in warm IPA for several kinutes, clean the flux residue using soft toothbrush.
- Wipe it dry. Done!
- Clemence
E17A is just a smaller version of the E21A? That doesnāt sound too interesting. Or are there anything Iām not aware of?
The color (RGBA) E17 can be made into limiless array. 4x E17 will be 3535 equivalent but with so many exciting possibilities and choices.
- Clemence
Just donāt drop them on the carpetā¦ :partying_face:
Can you bring some good 5050ās as well?
4000k 90 cri lights are making my 3C xml2 mountain bike lights almost unuseable.
There are none. Only 3000K XM-L2s are available with 90CRI. They are very inefficient and have yellow tints.
Show me your bike lights. Quadtrix e21 might solve your problem easily