Thank you for the test.
I like this driver, but I do not like memory: is there a possibility to do the âpencil trickâ on one of the capacitors to remove memory and let the driver start in low all the time?
Thank you for the test.
I like this driver, but I do not like memory: is there a possibility to do the âpencil trickâ on one of the capacitors to remove memory and let the driver start in low all the time?
This is LD25 driver, which is âalso available from Simon store:
âhttps://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-LD25-Flashlight-circuit-board/â:https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-LD25-Flashlight-circuit-board/330416_1018316904.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.47.4d303cf1hGr75i
All modes are programmable (except for strobe). Recently it arrived to me and I already checked. Works great.
There is another layout on the movie. I marked the programming (set) pin in red.
Hope itâs useful
Thanks for the review. HKJ. Iâm sure a certain member will be very happy with your results.
Also thanks to Chatika vas Paus for the video, can you also reduce current in each mode?
Reducing current you need to tab the red wire to brass ring and if you hold it will increase current.
ordered this driver 2 weeks ago. cant wait to get my hands on
Thanks, nice to see a driver review :+1:
Thanks. :+1:
Nice indeed. Used a few of these already, now I can understand why I had a hard time trying to measure its output flicker with VISO Flicker Tester.
MOSFET temperature speaking, once the driver is installed in a flashlight it is able to transmit heat to the host, thus its effective temperature should be considerably lower ( :???: ).
Nice to see mode current can be adjusted, but I would certainly thank a more careful explanation besides what's seen in the video.
At last, let me say the driver has two track jumpers on the underside, one of them comes stock closed and the other is open:
In Chatika vas Paus photograph, the closed one is above, the open one below.
In this picture by me closed one is to the right side, open one at the left.
I wonder what do they do.
Cheers ^:)
My driver from Simon arrived with open jumpers.
I asked about this Simon. His answer: itâs useless
Let's see if I understand how current can be set for a given mode. Initial conditions:
Then, when connecting the adjustment wire to ground driver will alternatively increase or decrease current until adjustment wire is ungrounded or some limit is reached. Is this right?
I wonder how low can it go.
Cheers :-)
Nice indeed. Used a few of these already, now I can understand why I had a hard time trying to measure its output flicker with VISO Flicker Tester.
MOSFET temperature speaking, once the driver is installed in a flashlight it is able to transmit heat to the host, thus its effective temperature should be considerably lower ( :question: ).
Nice to see mode current can be adjusted, but I would certainly thank a more careful explanation besides whatâs seen in the video.
At last, let me say the driver has two track jumpers on the underside, one of them comes stock closed and the other is open:
In Chatika vas Paus photograph, the closed one is above, the open one below.
In this picture by me closed one is to the right side, open one at the left.
I wonder what do they do.
Cheers :partying_face:
These look the same just rotated.
A really detailed explanation would be great!
I do not know how far you can reduce the current but i see a sens resistor. And usually playing with it, in or decreases the current. Could be a last resort if the programming is not enough.
I increased the current on my TN31 (K40m driver installed) a long time ago by switching the sense resistor from 100 or 82mOhm original to 50mOhm. And when i turned it on for the first time i was thinking : itâs alive itâs alive. Huge difference!
Hey Barkuti
have you receive your driver yet?
Iâm curious to know what is the lowest current it can go.
I have 2 drivers. I think itâs highly depends on used led battery.
1,49mA with Jaxman LG led and Sanyo NCR18650GA
4,6mA with LH351D and Panasonic NCR18650B
thanks Chatika
so the driver can adjust the current for each mode?
5.6mA is true firefly and this is what im looking for
Little mistake, already edited. Its 4,6mA, not 5,6.
Yes, each mode can be changed. Just select the mode in which you want to change the brightness and taptaptap (I recommend doing single/slowly taps) to reduce the current and hold for increase.
I noticed something strange. I have reduced the current of the lowest mode to about 35mA. After switching from Hi> Lo, Low it ramping from 0. It doesnât work when turning on at lowest mode.
I noticed something strange. I have reduced the current of the lowest mode to about 35mA. After switching from Hi> Lo, Low it ramping from 0. It doesnât work when turning on at lowest mode.
Err, do you mean that, when switching from high to low, low starts ramping from 0 to your 35mA current setting? How fast?
Cheers :-)
Fast, but it can be seen. Half a second, maybe less. At 60mA, I didnt notice it.
I noticed something strange. I have reduced the current of the lowest mode to about 35mA. After switching from Hi> Lo, Low it ramping from 0. It doesnât work when turning on at lowest mode.
Adjusted low mode to 100 mA and sometimes I see ramping too. Also my driver had strange modes by default: med 1.1A, high 2.2A. However, âset pointâ works as expected and all modes adjustable.
Barkuti, in other threads you said high mode might be bumped up via the jumper - is this the case? Did you try, and if it works - how is it?