Thanks. By performance, do you mean overall output, or also intensity? I was just trying to compare two different S2+ Iāve modded with these emitters, and it looks to me like the area of the SST-20ās LES is somewhere between 25-50% that of the 219c. So, with similar outputs, the SST-20 should have higher intensity.
Thanks. Thatās interesting. Iād guess the Samsung High CRI is the LH351D. These are with the stock driver? Which is a FET?
I wonder how 2x 5K SST-20 + 2x 3000K SST-20 High CRI would lookā¦
^ By performance I was referring to output, efficiency and current handling, but you have a valid point that I did not consider yet, the SST-20 indeed seems to have a bit smaller die than the 219 (and XP-G2), so a bit higher intensity and better behaviour in small Carclo optics.
Sorry Jerommel, just now saw your question.
I am using Petrol( a.k.a benzin), A98 EU standard, very pure stuff, sold only in drugstores. Heated to about 45-50 dgrs.C
I can show you XML2 led dedomed with this stuff, it look like dome was never put on
Same here, and i used pure Toluene at some 125Ā°Cā¦
First i sliced / shaved the dome off, then in hot Toluene for like 12 hours total.
The remaining silicone was swollen some 20% and detached from the phosphor, but the bond wires were still stuck in there, so they brokeā¦
So itās even harder to dedome chemically than the SST-40.
Bummerā¦
Maybe just razor blade dedoming with a drilled shim? Did this to an XHP50A from multiple angles and while the flattened dome doesn't looks absolutely flat, the batsignal looks quite symmetric in zoomie flashlights, this must mean it's goodenough, I believe. This also makes sure you don't mess with the phosphors at all, something which could ruin the CRI and tint. Do not fine grit sand the dome after shaving, in my experience this ruins the bond wires.
Itās a little off topic, because iām trying to dedome the CRI 70 5000K version, hoping to get an āXP-G2 killerā LED.
So CRI and tint doesnāt really matter.
All that matters in this case is dome removal.
Yeah, i think weāll have to settle for shaving. But the bond wires limit how close you can shave.
You do want to get as close to the die surface as possible. If you are good with a razor you can slice below the level of the bond wires for most of die while leaving the area around the bond wires thicker. It ends up looking a little like in this thread .
I modded an Olight S15 Baton with the led of the OP (also obtained from Kaidomain), it is its fourth led now but this one stays in. It is making a lousy 120 lumen at highest setting (stock cool XM-L2=260lumen, note that the throw will be hardly different from stock because of the small die-size of the SST-20) but the tint is perfect. Perfect as in the absolute sense, as you can see in the colour data. Either this led does particularly nice things in a small smooth reflector, or I got lucky with a led closer to the BBL than the led tested by maukka.
Hotspot on maximum setting:
Spill just outside of the hotspot:
In none of the output settings or postion in the beam the CRI got under 97.
The hotspot that the SST-20 produces in the S15 btw is tighter than the hotspot with a 219C.
Thanks for posting the test results. From the very few examples Iāve tried, putting the emitter in a reflector makes the tint yellower/greener. Iām surprised you got even better tint than tested by Maukka.
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levelsā¦
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI