[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

I guess I know him :person_facepalming: .
He got those 3500K from somewhere else, not me. I have never interested in 219B series, so forgive my ignorance.

- Clemence

Hmmm… 3500K 219B 9080 sounds delicious… :heart_eyes:

According to LEDRISE, they can still get the NVSL219B-V1 9080 219B from 3000k all the way to 4500k from Nichia but their MOQ is “one full roll”.

[quote=clemence]

What is that something else? :wink: Care to share or is it meant as a surprise for us??

[quote=SKV89]

Hint: you asked one of my surprises before. Don’t worry, I’ll give you a head start later.

- Clemence

Cant wait to see these in the story. Will have to try them if just to collect them all…

^ Must be using a UV pump, because grow lights are full spectrum, including UV and some (near) IR.
Efficiency for the visible part of the spectrum will probably suffer.

Clemence, any chance you’ll be selling the Noctigon 4XP 33mm in the near future? I really want a D4S in 4000k nichia but I don’t entirely trust my stovestop reflow skills for such a high power setup. I’ll do it if I have to but would rather pay to get it done properly.

I will slowly leave 3535 LED off my future projects. The easiest way is to order from Hank and send it to my address so I can solder it for you. But if you want to learn and experiment, it’s actually very easy to do. Rather than spending money to ship it to me

- Clemence

Leave 3535??? Oh no that’s bad news! I was hoping you would probably bring more surprises in the most common form factor. Maybe more “E” tint bin 219C for example.

Don’t worry, I’ll bring “another 3535” for you guys, soon. Fell in love with E21A and now E17A.
CSP LEDs freed you from the constraints normally we face with packaged LEDs

- Clemence

Thanks. I’ll just grab some LEDs before they vanish then. I have reflowed two triples on the stove which work ok but I’m never confident that the result is optimal (amount of solder and all).

Easier if you use excess solder paste.

  1. Put a blob of paste covering all the pads. Sn63/Pb37 is the easiest to work with. 200°C is all it takes to completely wet and melt (the melting point is 187°C)
  2. Place the LED, press it slowly so all the contact pads wetted by the solder paste.
  3. Place it on the hot plate. Heat it slowly at approx. 1°C/second.
  4. Let the paste melt while slowly wiggle the LED with soft tweezer (I use sharpened chopsticks). I don’t like to tap/press the LED.
  5. Move the LED 2/3 away from the correct position and suck the excess solder using soldering vacuum pump or solder wick.
  6. Place it back to the correct position. I always use minimal solder whenever possible. When the LED “springing back” by the solder tension, that means there’s still too much solder beneath the LED - suck it off again.
  7. Fine tune the position once again.
  8. Let the soldered MCPCB cools at the same pace as it heat.
  9. Soak it in warm IPA for several kinutes, clean the flux residue using soft toothbrush.
  10. Wipe it dry. Done!

- Clemence

E17A is just a smaller version of the E21A? That doesn’t sound too interesting. Or are there anything I’m not aware of?

The color (RGBA) E17 can be made into limiless array. 4x E17 will be 3535 equivalent but with so many exciting possibilities and choices.

- Clemence

Just don’t drop them on the carpet… :partying_face:

Can you bring some good 5050’s as well?

4000k 90 cri lights are making my 3C xml2 mountain bike lights almost unuseable.

There are none. Only 3000K XM-L2s are available with 90CRI. They are very inefficient and have yellow tints.

Show me your bike lights. Quadtrix e21 might solve your problem easily

Thanks for the reflow advice. I will try to incorporate it as best as I can with available equipment. And by the way, your store is a joy to use. The layout and order process are excellent. Good thing I can’t just order nichia LEDs for the whole house or I’d go broke :smiley: