^ Must be using a UV pump, because grow lights are full spectrum, including UV and some (near) IR.
Efficiency for the visible part of the spectrum will probably suffer.
Clemence, any chance you’ll be selling the Noctigon 4XP 33mm in the near future? I really want a D4S in 4000k nichia but I don’t entirely trust my stovestop reflow skills for such a high power setup. I’ll do it if I have to but would rather pay to get it done properly.
I will slowly leave 3535 LED off my future projects. The easiest way is to order from Hank and send it to my address so I can solder it for you. But if you want to learn and experiment, it’s actually very easy to do. Rather than spending money to ship it to me
Leave 3535??? Oh no that’s bad news! I was hoping you would probably bring more surprises in the most common form factor. Maybe more “E” tint bin 219C for example.
Don’t worry, I’ll bring “another 3535” for you guys, soon. Fell in love with E21A and now E17A.
CSP LEDs freed you from the constraints normally we face with packaged LEDs
Thanks. I’ll just grab some LEDs before they vanish then. I have reflowed two triples on the stove which work ok but I’m never confident that the result is optimal (amount of solder and all).
Put a blob of paste covering all the pads. Sn63/Pb37 is the easiest to work with. 200°C is all it takes to completely wet and melt (the melting point is 187°C)
Place the LED, press it slowly so all the contact pads wetted by the solder paste.
Place it on the hot plate. Heat it slowly at approx. 1°C/second.
Let the paste melt while slowly wiggle the LED with soft tweezer (I use sharpened chopsticks). I don’t like to tap/press the LED.
Move the LED 2/3 away from the correct position and suck the excess solder using soldering vacuum pump or solder wick.
Place it back to the correct position. I always use minimal solder whenever possible. When the LED “springing back” by the solder tension, that means there’s still too much solder beneath the LED - suck it off again.
Fine tune the position once again.
Let the soldered MCPCB cools at the same pace as it heat.
Soak it in warm IPA for several kinutes, clean the flux residue using soft toothbrush.
Thanks for the reflow advice. I will try to incorporate it as best as I can with available equipment. And by the way, your store is a joy to use. The layout and order process are excellent. Good thing I can’t just order nichia LEDs for the whole house or I’d go broke
Just want to say after a week of usage, I really enjoy these modded Tiara’s alot. I use them every night now while watching TV and I’m amazed how well they can maintain constant lumen without stepping down, which makes it very practical as room lighting.
What I noticed is that the mixed CCT result in rosier tints. The 2x 2000k with 2x 3000k Tiara produces much rosier tint than the 2000k and 3000k version. The 2x3000k with 2x4000k version also produces rosier tints than the 3000k and 4000k version.
The 2500k is my fav right now for watching TV. 4000k is best for work. I thought after a while my eyes would adjust to the 2000k like with other color temps but it still appears too warm for me.