Three Oslons tested: 1) latest gen. Oslon Black Flat 2) SSL80 4000K 92CRI latest gen. 3) SSL80 4500K 96CRI 1 gen. before latest

I got the first batch 17 and 20mm boards produced

Was it the same LED which you used for the test?

In what distance did you measure the light? You need to be further away compared to the same light with XP-G2 because the LED is smaller.

There might also be another reason. It’s possible that the lens of the Brinyte is not precise enough for such a small LED. You could check this by putting the light into full focus and looking straight at it from a few meters away. The entire lens needs to be yellow (or lit up).

If it’s not, then a fix would be to add a pre-collimator. It makes the LED seem twice as big which “makes it easier” for the lens.

I measured at 7 meter, but an aspheric flashlight measures well at shorter distance just as well.

The Brinyte plastic lens is one of the best I have seen, and much better than any glass lens that I have encountered in various flashlights. The die image is very crisp, if the lens was imperfect you would see the imperfect focus coming from the lens part that gives different focus or chromatic abberations superimposed over the sharp die image. But you don’t see any of that.

Some recent testing with L4P’s Oslon board mafe me realise how sensitive specifically the overdriven Black Flat is for imperfect heatsinking, I really think that it is likely that something like that happened at the time.

I agree, but you never know until you try ;).

Which is the right one to order? What’s 5-pin vs. 2-pin?

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/luwhwqp-8m7n-ebvf46fcbb46-1/osram-opto-semiconductors

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/luwhwqp-8m7n-ebvf46fcbb46-8e8h/osram-opto-semiconductors

All the ones available on mouser and digikey are the 8E8H ones so go with that.
It also says new on arrow, so makes sense to buy the more recent one.

Of course I ordered the wrong ones in a hurry. :person_facepalming:

So, having seen some interesting results from new builds with the Black Flat I just ordered my first ones. I’m thinking about putting 4 in the Sofirn Q8, any reason that won’t work? I don’t need this light to be a lumens boss, but a throwy performance might be very interesting…

They have a very small tab on the outside of each pad, positive and negative, these make up for the 2 additional “pins” so they call it a 5 pin. It mounts the same as all the XP/Nichia/Samsung 3 slot footprints. :wink: (got this on the data sheet)

The flat black thermal pad is not isolated IIRC, so using it with the Q8 driver could short circuit.

Not sure if it’s a good idea:

That post is a question, maybe I’m missing something. But maybe Q8 reflector is not good for throw.

Sofrin Q8 with XP-L HI is noticably throwier than the BLF Q8. I would expect the Black Flat to produce results of a similar nature.

If the XP-L Hi in the Sofirn Q8 throws 106kcd, as I measured, a Black Flat should throw about 160 kcd, at ~2500 lumen OTF.

If the grounded thermal pad is the only drawback, that can be dealt with. I have Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive to make a “mask” between the emitter shelf and MCPCB, I can make polycarbonate screws if need be to ensure the MCPCB doesn’t ground through the mounts. Or I can get ceramic screws. Or nylon ones, whatever. Don’t even need the screws if the MCPCB is glued down in the first place…

djozz? Only 600 lumens per Black Flat? Conservative isn’t it? Reckon I’ll find out, should have the emitters here by end of week and the Sofirn Q8 is en-route… as are new boards from Neven. Of course, the original MCPCB should work fine here…

If during curing of the thermal glue you connect led+ on the ledboard and the Q8 housing to a small power source (I use a led-tester for that), the Black Flats will light up if you have a short between ledboard and housing, so you still have time to correct before the glue is hardened.

The only danger even if the thermal pad grounds out is not having modes, same as shorting the negative lead, so it’s not really that big a deal overall anyway. Thanks though, I know to take precaution so it should work out all right. Thinking about using a similar light and putting 9 of em in. :smiley:

I like the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive because it can be removed through application of heat. :wink:

Is the center pad just connected to ground? seems like there was too it then that, although I have not looked into it that close.

The negative pad and thermal pad are connected.

What are your thoughts on this? http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/13-minus-pad-8-en
I already posted this in another thread. I bought a 0.5mm sheet of this and will be testing it in a Tool AA with an Oslon. You think it’s too thick for good thermal contact? I think with a screwed down MCPCB it should become very thin, as it’s very elastic. At least it has the same thermal conductivity as Arctic Silver 5.