You’re right, it’s not the v1.5, it is the “traditional” Q8, but a bit different from the BLF Q8 anyway. It does have the XPL HI and some other changes noted by Sofirn.
I like the battery tube more than on the old Q8, too.
But - What does the “T” on the switch stand for?
I thought it stands for the manufacturer of the old Q8 - THorfire - will we get a different switch-cover on the Sofirn Q8?
Or are they also manufactured by Thorfire??
Sofirn is the company who made the Q8 for Thorfire. I don’t know if they will source new covers. They probably have hundreds of the T logo covers and will just continue using them. Maybe they will comment on it. It makes no difference to me.
Love the options that Sofirn is bringing to the table, some excellent and some not such great ideas. Well, Sofirn’s ideas appear sound but the ideas of going for 20,000 lumens in this light are sure to get someone in a bind somewhere. Insufficient cooling. Take it from someone who knows…
I wonder if they tweaked/updated the NarsilM v1.0 of the BLF Q8 for the new Sofirn Q8 with XPL-Hi (eg. using NarsilM v1.2 would make it better, adding momentary tactical and also strobe modes get accessed better).
Would there be a big enough different for XPL-HD to XPL-Hi in terms of the heat management features or other features of the previous BLF Q8 NarsilM? And also wondering, if the Anduril for BLF Q8 will also work on the Sofirn Q8 (assuming they used the same MCPCB and only the LED changed and minor stuff)
T stands for nothing but for better finger touching. It could be many dots or other designs but we already have this. We might use new design of the cap if there is good new idea.
I want a seperate battery tube that use 3*26650 or 3*21700, or some big boys like that. That way i can have longgggg run time thanks to the bigger cells. And when needed i can switch to the conventional 18650 tube again with no hassle. What do you think? :face_with_monocle:
3 x 26650 5700mah = 17100mah
3 x 21700 5000mah = 15000mah
4 x 18650 3500mah = 14000mah
There’s not a big difference. If using the 26650 Shockli 5500 or Keeppower 6000 (both are about 5700mah) then you get a 22% increase in capacity. That would help a little, but not a whole lot.
Aye, but i’m using only 3000mAh cells. Beside when the voltage drop (say after 40mins-1h)so does the light. I’m hoping the 26650 can retain the high output a little longer? I have little experience with these cell honestly, just looking for a reason to try them out
You can see that the 26650 has the highest combination of capacity and amperage. This is because it’s the biggest physical battery. It’s double the physical size of an 18650 and the 21700 is in the middle at 50% bigger than an 18650.
The problem here is 3 x 26650 is too big a diameter to fit in the Q8 battery tube.
4 x 18650 can fit in a 44mm circle
3 x 21700 can fit in a 46mm circle
3 x 26650 needs a 57mm circle
Also keep in mind that you don’t need crazy amperage for the Q8. Typical is 15A with maybe 20A the max. So let’s look at the loads of each cell at 5A.
So if you want the longest run time at high outputs, not considering heat, then the middle of the road 18650 3000mah and 21700 4000mah is your best bet. Both give you the same 12000mah capacity. So there’s no real benefit switching to 3 x 21700.
If you want the longest run time at low levels, then the high capacity 18650 3500mah and 21700 5000mah are you best bet. These have an advantage at the lower voltage levels between 2.8v to 3.2v to give extra run time. Switching from 4 x 18650 to 3 x 21700 only gives you a 7% increase in capacity, though.
The best of both worlds would be a bigger battery tube to fit 3 x 26650, but I don’t see that happening.
Is the CDR number indicate discharge rate at all time, like until the battery is nearly depleted or it’s just the average rate? I like to be able to hit turbo even with low battery if that’s possible. I also hear with enough current you can boost the brightness off the chart up to nearly 7000lm, that i’m a bit ambitious with.
On the side note: Are there any way for the user to calibrate the temperature sensor of the light? It kinda pointless having a thermometter that isn’t accurate isn’t it?