What did you mod today?

Ok, so yā€™all know by now that the right cell can make a big difference, right? I mean, you go to a lot of trouble modding a light you want to use the cell thatā€™s going to show it off, sure ya do!

So, I got the new Samsungā€™s in my Meteor and made some tweaks, with Samsung 30Qā€™s it was making like 17,528 lumens, right? But how can that be enough? I mean, the math said there was more to found so I ordered some of the new (to me anyway) Samsung 25S 18650ā€™s. Supposed to be directly comparable to the Sony VTC5A and 5D cells.

Got solder blobs on 4 out of 8, got em charged up, stuck em in the Meteor and fired that bad boy up! ANDā€¦.

18,940.5 lumens at start! Yeowza!

1412 lumens for a battery swap, Iā€™ll take it! lol

[quote=CRX]

Not today but added a lighted tail switch to the FourSevens Mini ML Ti Triple Nichia 219C 5000K.

LD-A4 3A driver - Start around 1800lm DD 60Ā°C, 320lm stepdown 25s. 942lm CC 60Ā°C, 270lm stepdown 60s.

White LEDā€™s under the green GITD silicone circling the reverse clicky titanium switch cover.

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Awesome build CRX!!

Tonight I converted my TK45 to be able to swap back and forth between the 4/8 AA carrier and a 26650.

I previously installed a 7135 based driver so input voltage was already in the 3-5v range. The carrier had been modified at that time to give 4s NiMH voltage (stock the light was 8S AA) and it could deliver that~4v even if only half loaded with 4 AA as long as I used the correct slots. The 26650 also gives a 105g weight advantage over the same capacity of NIMH (8 NiMH arranged 2p4s giving a capacity of ~4.0Ah + carrier = 275g, 26650 @ ~4.0Ah & adapter parts = 170g)

Looks very nice, can you measure the thickness? :+1:

Zozz, curiousā€¦ did you, when making the slice, use a push cut a slice cut? What I mean is, did you push the razor blade straight across to slice the dome off or did you drag the blade in a slicing motion?

I have started slicing off a thin tip of the dome first, then a secondary slice, then a third, then using the spacer but angling the blade such that it cuts slightly high, then a final pass at the correct height such that a very thin wafer of dome is removed last. This has allowed me to have a pretty clean slice, and I also use silicone grease on the blade to allow it to not grab on the way through. Do I really need to go to all this trouble? Or is it just being OCD in the mod department? lol

LichtAn:
I will measure when I get home.

Other leds I used silicone grease on the razor and I made it in a slicing motion.
For this one I forgot to grease so cutted straight in :smiley: I mean sliced. So it has a little crack in the left dome but luckily on the very edge and not above dies.
First time not pushed down very much on the shim so get a little left to make it clean. Then I pressed more on the helping plate and I holded the razor in a little angle and gone through the led from every four side because on the leaving os running out side the blade always left thicker material. It is better to grease the blade. Maybe on the next for the GT I will make a better cleaner job than this one.

I made my guide fit very tight to the dome, to support the outside diameter of the dome during the lubed up, angled slice and also during the sanding/polishing process. Love those Wilkinson bladesā€¦ :+1:

I measured it. It is 1.00mm

Thanks!

What do you guys use for sanding a LED, normal sandpaper?
And what for polishing?

I never sand and polish, slice only.

I used a sand paper, that I bought on ali, it was a 5 000 grid I guess.

Didnā€™t like the tint of the Maeerxu M8 so I figured iā€™d replace it and bought the parts from mountain elec.

I finally got an emisar D4 with XPG2, and dedomed the emitters in warm gas. With a charged VTC5A I measured 30kcd at 15s. That is with stock springs. I really like the beam with the dedomed XPG2s.

I learned from bypassing the springs in the D1S that it is a real challenge to keep the spring assembly short enough to not crush the cell. I really appreciate the design of these lights keeping the size as small as possible, but it does make some modding more difficult. Anyway, I figure the stock springs are relatively low resistance.

Thereā€™s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.

Donā€™t forget you are talking to a forum of powerhungry flashlight enthusiasts. :laughing: These springs have about 8 mOhms each. Cutting out nearly 16 mOhms would significantly reduce the total circuit resistance and would get some gains. But I think the design is an ok trade-off to get the smaller size.

I modded a friends S41, changed emitters to the W6 binned Samsung LH351D at 5000K, swapped the MOSFET for an Vishay-Dale SIR404DP, changed leads to 20ga Teflon coated, 22ga spring bypassesā€¦ with a new Nitecore 18350 it does 3232 lumens, on a Samsung 25S it pushes 4888 lumens! :smiley:

I advised him on getting a pair of oven mitts to wearā€¦

Itā€™s not 8mOhms, itā€™s even lower.

At a 20mV Vdroop at 6A, these springs have 3,33mOhm of resistance.

Itā€™s absolutely amazing for a spring. Even mine are 10mOhm BeCu springs are nothing compared to them. Doing a spring bypass would just help lower resistance even further, but you will not get much in terms of % brightness boost, with a ton more heat.

I measured close to 50mV at 6A, but maybe there was an error.

I donā€™t know how to do those measurements, but I personally would be more interested in 16-20A instead of 6A. :wink: