Zebralight SC600 MkIII Emitter Swap

Yes, the tool sits directly in top of the glas. I also tried it with razorblades, but those were too thin and kept bending before i could slip them under the ring. With the carvingblade i could apply some very light presure to compress the o-ring under the lens and then slip the blade under the ring without breaking the glass. Then i moved the blade around the ring without much prying, to lift it a tiny bit. After I made the full circle the ring popped out.

For the reflow i used a 5mm nozzle and moved it in little circles around the emitter until it came of. I had to retin the pads on the driver, which i did with some standard solder and a chisel-shaped tip. Before reflowing the new emitter i applied a tiny amount of flux, then i reheated the pads until the solder melted and put the new emitter in place. The self centering worked as usual, and i could press the emitter down at the corners with some tweezers to squeeze out excess solder.
I will try to post some more pictures to illustrate the process.
Edit:
I made a short video where i desolder the LED on a SC600 MKII and resolder a new one:
sc600 reflow - YouTube Please excuse the bad quality.

Thanks, your video demonstrates the process perfectly. Serious props for actually opening the light and giving it a shot even though current straight Zebralights are generally considered unmoddable! I chickened out and returned an SC64c earlier this year because the stock XP-L2 was ugly and I had visions of everything falling off the back of the board as soon as I tried to reflow the emitter.

Would you mind measuring diameter and thickness of the glass lens?

Most impressive moridin! I’ve been tint lottery lucky with my 2 ZebraLights, so fortunately I don’t have to attempt what you’ve done. Looking forward to your review of the mod and beamshots if you’re able to post them.

Not at all. The diameter is 25.5mm, the thickness is 1.5mm.

I had a similar experience with a SC64. Now i am thinking of getting another one and replacing the XP-L2 with something that has a nicer tint and beam. The big advantage of the newer zebras is that there are much more options for 3V LEDs in the 3535 footprint, than there are for 12V LEDs :slight_smile:

Sorry, i saw your post just now. Do you want to see anything in particular?

I have also been wanting to do this. It’s the perfect EDC light.

Driver PCB both sides and shape of tool you removed bezel.
Thank you, Mike

Here you are:



Bad news about the SC64c: Zebralight have slightly tweaked the bezel design and removed the lip where you inserted the tool. It obviously doesn’t prevent the mod, but it makes it makes visible damage to the bezel and a broken lens somewhat more likely with this method.

Teaser for later :sunglasses:

I like where this is going :smiley:

Could I ask what temperature and airflow setting you used on your reflow station? I mostly work with 63/37 solder so I’m not sure if my usual settings are appropriate.

The airflow was set to 4, the temperature to 400. I have not measured the actual temp of the hotair stream, so i don’t really know how accurate this setting is.

Most ugliest driver ever

We do not need to look at it. Effective, that is important.

Do I spy a sense resistor?

Also, I’m fascinated at the level of simplicity to this diver knowing it’s performance. Does anyone think we can reverse engineer this design? Are there proprietary components?

Maybe lexel and Toykeeper can but both of them are like fire and ice :smiley:

indeed it look simple and it perform so well + efficient.

Question for the Zebralight modders here. Has anybody tried installed Lee minus green filters underneath the glass? If yes, is it a tight fit to get the bezel and glass back on the light? Any way to get the filter installed security over the glass to prevent opening the light?

Thanks

I acutally spent some time thinking about this recently. With a press fit bezel and reflector I worry about the filter material shifting or wrinkling under the glass as it’s pressed against the o-ring or during use. The only way I might consider pressing the filter inside is if it were glued to the lens with something like UV LOCA, but I’ve never tried this and don’t know how well it would work. The other options are replacing the reflector with an optic so you have two surfaces to sandwich it between, or installing it over the glass with glue around the edge (or LOCA again I guess). The latter is described in a couple of old BLF comments.

Bob_McBob, thank you so much. BLF is such a great resource and I keep on learning so much thanks to people like yourself.
I really like the technique proposed by 1C3: (image below)

Sounds like putting it on the surface is a much better alternative, even if it means it may get scratched.
Is there any particular UV LOCA glue that you recommend?

I have some Lee filters on back order with Adorama. Will test them using this method as soon as I receive them!