Other leds I used silicone grease on the razor and I made it in a slicing motion.
For this one I forgot to grease so cutted straight in I mean sliced. So it has a little crack in the left dome but luckily on the very edge and not above dies.
First time not pushed down very much on the shim so get a little left to make it clean. Then I pressed more on the helping plate and I holded the razor in a little angle and gone through the led from every four side because on the leaving os running out side the blade always left thicker material. It is better to grease the blade. Maybe on the next for the GT I will make a better cleaner job than this one.
I made my guide fit very tight to the dome, to support the outside diameter of the dome during the lubed up, angled slice and also during the sanding/polishing process. Love those Wilkinson blades… :+1:
I finally got an emisar D4 with XPG2, and dedomed the emitters in warm gas. With a charged VTC5A I measured 30kcd at 15s. That is with stock springs. I really like the beam with the dedomed XPG2s.
I learned from bypassing the springs in the D1S that it is a real challenge to keep the spring assembly short enough to not crush the cell. I really appreciate the design of these lights keeping the size as small as possible, but it does make some modding more difficult. Anyway, I figure the stock springs are relatively low resistance.
There’s not much to be gained by bypassing Emisar springs. They were chosen to make that less relevant, by being low-resistance and compressing pretty much flat during use.
Don’t forget you are talking to a forum of powerhungry flashlight enthusiasts. :laughing: These springs have about 8 mOhms each. Cutting out nearly 16 mOhms would significantly reduce the total circuit resistance and would get some gains. But I think the design is an ok trade-off to get the smaller size.
I modded a friends S41, changed emitters to the W6 binned Samsung LH351D at 5000K, swapped the MOSFET for an Vishay-Dale SIR404DP, changed leads to 20ga Teflon coated, 22ga spring bypasses… with a new Nitecore 18350 it does 3232 lumens, on a Samsung 25S it pushes 4888 lumens!
I advised him on getting a pair of oven mitts to wear…
At a 20mV Vdroop at 6A, these springs have 3,33mOhm of resistance.
It’s absolutely amazing for a spring. Even mine are 10mOhm BeCu springs are nothing compared to them. Doing a spring bypass would just help lower resistance even further, but you will not get much in terms of % brightness boost, with a ton more heat.
Remember though Blue, all things are a matter of perspective. If it’s not JUST the spring that is being changed, it may be an open doorway to another dimension. For example, what seems like a small gain on an emitter that is maxed out, swap to an emitter that can handle double or triple the current and suddenly that small gain becomes much larger. An example would be removing the current limited XM-L2 U4 and putting an SST-40 in it’s place. Or using an SBT-70 that can gobble up 20A all by itself… same 3V supply demand.
How did you measure the springs? Pressed nearly flat against the bare pad at the center of the tail/driver PCB? If not then you may know the resistance of the springs, but you don’t understand the system.
@BlueSwordM
Yes the SBT-70 was a power drainer. Factory rating Vf 3,8V /10,5A. But could handle much more with propper cooling. And because of the round die perfect for Aspherics. I think it still has one of the nicest beam profiles in an aspheric light. I tryed to buy one when i really started with modding. But they were gone at that time.
I mean sliced. So it has a little crack in the left dome but luckily on the very edge and not above dies.
