Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

Finally got my Nichia version from the group buy.
First I thought they forgot the switch but then I noticed it was only the underdesigned lanyard mount :person_facepalming: .
But there was something black visible on the center LED, after removing the bezel it turned out as a solder clump. Removed it and light is ok now. Glad I checked before running the LED on full for a while which might have have burned the LEDs dome.
End control could be better though.

Bezel was very tight btw. and made a terrible squeaking noise when turning. I added some grease to the threads since I have to open the bezel again in future for a planned mod.

Did a rough lumen measurement with my Nicha version and got about 4800 to 5000 lumens at start, checked my last unmodified Q8 against and they showed almost the same values (within one or two percent), both with 30Q. Very nice tint, Q8 is green in direct comparison. But it gets hot very fast - much, much faster than the Q8. Temperature sensor doesn’t seem to be adjusted yet, after a couple of seconds the light is too hot to touch.
Anyway, I’m pretty impressed with this light!

I have to say, for a first run “showing some teething problems”, I absolutely love my nichia version of this light. No problems what so ever.

If it’s of interest, here’s a build calibrated for the ROT66-219B:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2018-09-07.FF_ROT66.hex

It doesn’t get so hot like that, but it might potentially err in the other direction. As soon as it thinks it’s going to overheat, it glides down to about 2000 lm. The sensor can be calibrated though, and the temperature limit set to whatever you like.

Am I reading the description correctly that the stainless steel tailcap is now standard?

The price on the SST20 version is really compelling considering how close the test results are to the 219B.

Any tradeoffs to Anduril versus NarsilM? From what I’ve read of Anduril, I’m inclined to hope they change to that firmware.

I keep telling myself I don’t need this light, but if I’m being honest, the only reason I haven’t given in yet is I haven’t figured out how to explain yet another light to my wife.

The biggest one is that Anduril doesn’t have Narsil’s mode set UI. There is no mode where you click once per level at start and then it locks in. And the discrete levels don’t fall exactly on the channel boundaries unless you’re careful.

Instead of the mode set UI, it has a stepped ramp mode. It’s like the smooth ramp, but not smooth. Instead of clicking to go up or holding to go down, it’s hold to go up or release-and-hold to go down.

Anduril also doesn’t provide as much control over the brightness of moon mode. Specifically, it doesn’t go as low as Narsil allows. But in exchange for being potentially brighter in moon, the tradeoff is that Anduril uses less than half as much power.

I don’t like the delayed off that Anduril has, it’s not as intuitive as instant off of Narsil. It’s the Zebralight syndrome where anybody who isn’t used to it thinks they haven’t turned the light off and accidentally activates turbo trying to turn the light off. On the opposite hand, Narsil’s moonlight is delayed in comparison to Anduril, but it does go way lower. Overall I prefer Narsil, but the one thing I wish Narsil had was an obvious blink and slight pause when the ramp reaches the light’s max regulated output, of course that will depend on the driver of the light.

The only thing that would make me potentially not order a SST20 high cri version is knowing that luminous emitters tend to vary wildly in cct and tint depending on their output. Nichias and Crees are less prone.

a blink when max regulated current is reached could be added doing one of the values right when the FET starts 0 instead 255 of the AMCs
but you may end up while ramping with a small percentage in this off level

Talking about AMCs...does anyone know how many AMCs are being used in the XP-G2 or SST20 version? Maybe this version would be quite appropriate to be fitted with LH351D. The footprint (3535) should be the same but I’m not sure about the space the (revised?) optic or added gasket would leave for this LED.

351D does not fit under the optics

Just ordered another one. sst20 version. Are they ready to ship?

Since they asked you about the LEDs, do you have any idea what tint bin SST-20 4000k they are using? Is it the same FB4 from Kaidomain? But if that’s the case, it would be green and not below the BBL as shown in their test report.

Skylumen was somehow able to get them to fit. I don’t know how he did it.

2 possible ways

- drill out the optics holes a bit

  • use a thin washer to move the optics further away from MCPCB so it does not touch the dome

It was some time ago, when the SST-20 W was not not available and tested yet. I suggested the high CRI LH351D or LH351C, they checked the D but finally went for the N.219Bsw45r9080 because they did not like the LH351D. But I had no recent contact.

I guess they couldn’t find a Samsung without the greenish/yellowish tint. I’m just surprised they were able to find so many 219B 9080 sw45, that is supposedly discontinued. Also really curious which tint bin they selected for the SST-20W. I might buy another one if it is a good tint bin.

I suggested Fireflies a tint bin below the bbl, hope they can source it

Very good suggestion

The 219B version has 7x7135. The emitters seem to have sort of a slow activation time though, so the ramp stalls around the 1x7135 level. I tried to work around this by starting the middle portion of the ramp at a higher PWM level, but even at 15/255 it still stalls a little.

I think the SST20 versions have 14x7135, but I’m not sure yet. I’m also not sure how fast they activate, or if they can use a normal 1/255 floor for the middle channel. I haven’t tried that family of emitters before. So getting the ramp shape right might take some experimentation.

This light is pretty sensitive to bumps! Give it a tap on the tail cap and its off.
Its lacking a buffer cap, as I proposed for the Q8 a while ago: