6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

Lexel responded your message already? Hmmm. I thought he wasn’t answering just yet due to his hand surgery. I’m still waiting his response on my L6 driver. Should be a lot easier than what you are looking for, damn, awesome project.

I’m pretty new to the flashlight acquisition world, with the exception of some Maglights acquired of decades and a few disposable LEDs. But lately I have acquired a few of these: a couple of Olight, a couple of Imalent, a couple ThorFire (including BLF Q8), and quite a few Astrolux. The interface that I really like is the one in the BLF Q8. I wish all of my flashlights had the ramping feature. I would like to upgrade my Astrolux MF01 and MF02 lights to have the ramping feature. I’ve never done any flashlight modding, but from reading this forum what Lexel is offering may be what I’m looking for to accomplish this. I’ve watched a few videos regarding this, such as those put out by Matt at AdventureSportFlashlights. I’m not sure that I’m ready for this, but I really do want to get these two lights, especially the MF01, having a ramping mode. Please don’t beat me up for this, but is there a minimalist way to accomplish this? Perhaps requiring just a little soldering and not wholesale replacement of parts on a driver board. Any constructive advice that you can give or direction that you can point me would be appreciated. I’d like to do the same with some Astrolux C8s I have, so perhaps I should start there first.

Jeff

The MF01 requires replacing the driver board completely plus modifying the leds wires to get the voltages correct. So it’s not too hard. I don’t think it’s glued. It is glued.

The MF02 requires a driver swap, but it is glued shut. You’ll need special tools and techniques (vice, heat gun, strap wrenches, etc…) to get it opened up.

To use NarsilM (ramping) requires a light with an e-switch or electronic switch (simple contact usually side mounted). The regular C8’s use a mechanical on/off switch (usually tail mounted) so they won’t work.

Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?

new MF01s v2 are glued hard on the bezel with red locktite to get to the LED board,
very hard to get open, I heat it up to 140°C and then CNC machined brackets for bezel and head

the v2 500-1000 or 1500 were not glued, but need a LED and carrier mod for the Buck driver
MF01s v1 the first 500 have old LED board and can be used with simple driver swap

MF02 needs a simple Carrier mod or my replacement boards plus driver swap
MF02 heads were always glued first with blue stuff then with white stuff, but not as bad as MF01

Olight are really hard to get to the guts usually possted and press fit bezels

Its likely they use a buck driver with constant current output, so a LED swap wont do much output gain

You have to define what driver you are refering to.

Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.

No, pretty much all drivers have at least one MCU controlled LED pinout (1S 3 Channel, 2S 2 Channel)
on most recent drivers I have also one pin with a resistor to vcc or 5V LDO added, so both Switch LED channels can be simply soldered to a pad and have a resistor on the driver

I say yes, you say no. Did I misunderstand the question? The second half of our answers are the same. I’m confused.

It is described in post 4.

old boards

new boards

L MCU controlled LED (over a resistor)
LS battery or 5V (depending where the resistor is soldered and if its 1 or 2S driver)
S switch
G common ground

on the switch board there are 2 indipendant LED positive pads you can route to L and LS as you like

I also added boards with 2 LEds in series for 2S drivers so the standby current of the LEDs can be cut in half for types with forward voltage below 2.2V

I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?

sock driver means wiring switch to battery +

if switch board do not contain a resistor you have to add one usual values 10-50k depending on brightness and LED color

Are those the stock L6 boards?

Ok, thanks Lexel!

No those are my drivers in different revisions

Okay, this is why I ask since there are many drivers that can fit the L6.

The stock FX-30 driver has no proper output for side switch lights. On this one you have to power your switch lights from a constant power source such as the positive lead going to the LED. You also have to make sure to add a resistor to reduce the voltage. The switch light will turn on and off with the tail switch. Look at my L6 and Mini L6 links to see how I wired them. It is not too hard.

Thanks Jason, will look now at your links and see if I can do it!

Looking to order a couple drivers for my H03 please. With temp and lvp precalibrated. And I guess the short springs? Whichever spring is most commonly ordered with this driver, it’s my first time.

Hi Lexel,
I’m not sure if this was long ago asked, do you have a 21mm driver planned for use in the Sofirn C8F 21700 version? So e-switch, Narsil (Anduril?), FET+7135, no components at battery side because of thick retaining ring. A nasty feature of this host is that the rim on which the driver rests is rather wide, more than a mm (I can measure the exact width if needed), so the components should not be much further to the side than a 17mm driver.
If you can make this, I’m interested!

Same thing as djozz too.

The C8F 21700 looks dope, and I would love a driver with it in a triple NarsilM linear+FET arrangement, or even a boost driver if possible.