I don’t like the delayed off that Anduril has, it’s not as intuitive as instant off of Narsil. It’s the Zebralight syndrome where anybody who isn’t used to it thinks they haven’t turned the light off and accidentally activates turbo trying to turn the light off. On the opposite hand, Narsil’s moonlight is delayed in comparison to Anduril, but it does go way lower. Overall I prefer Narsil, but the one thing I wish Narsil had was an obvious blink and slight pause when the ramp reaches the light’s max regulated output, of course that will depend on the driver of the light.
The only thing that would make me potentially not order a SST20 high cri version is knowing that luminous emitters tend to vary wildly in cct and tint depending on their output. Nichias and Crees are less prone.
a blink when max regulated current is reached could be added doing one of the values right when the FET starts 0 instead 255 of the AMCs
but you may end up while ramping with a small percentage in this off level
Talking about AMCs...does anyone know how many AMCs are being used in the XP-G2 or SST20 version? Maybe this version would be quite appropriate to be fitted with LH351D. The footprint (3535) should be the same but I’m not sure about the space the (revised?) optic or added gasket would leave for this LED.
Since they asked you about the LEDs, do you have any idea what tint bin SST-20 4000k they are using? Is it the same FB4 from Kaidomain? But if that’s the case, it would be green and not below the BBL as shown in their test report.
It was some time ago, when the SST-20 W was not not available and tested yet. I suggested the high CRI LH351D or LH351C, they checked the D but finally went for the N.219Bsw45r9080 because they did not like the LH351D. But I had no recent contact.
I guess they couldn’t find a Samsung without the greenish/yellowish tint. I’m just surprised they were able to find so many 219B 9080 sw45, that is supposedly discontinued. Also really curious which tint bin they selected for the SST-20W. I might buy another one if it is a good tint bin.
The 219B version has 7x7135. The emitters seem to have sort of a slow activation time though, so the ramp stalls around the 1x7135 level. I tried to work around this by starting the middle portion of the ramp at a higher PWM level, but even at 15/255 it still stalls a little.
I think the SST20 versions have 14x7135, but I’m not sure yet. I’m also not sure how fast they activate, or if they can use a normal 1/255 floor for the middle channel. I haven’t tried that family of emitters before. So getting the ramp shape right might take some experimentation.
I’ve found it’s hard to tell when this tail cap is tightened sufficiently. Have had what you’re describing happen before and a bit more tightening took care of it.
Mine did that one night as well, where it would turn off or blink twice from slight bumps to the tail. I thought to myself “gee, when I first got this light I was amazed at how unaffected it was to bumps.” The solution is to just tighten the tailcap more.
I don’t think they consider it a problem. In fact most flashlights do this. Part of the reason the ROT66 does this is it because it doesn’t have springs on both ends of the battery carrier. A longer battery, like a protected cell, will put more tension on the springs and make it less likely to be bumped and lose contact.
As far as modding the driver by adding a capacitor you would need to speak to Lexel about that.
