Zebralight SC600 MkIII Emitter Swap

Here you are:



Bad news about the SC64c: Zebralight have slightly tweaked the bezel design and removed the lip where you inserted the tool. It obviously doesn’t prevent the mod, but it makes it makes visible damage to the bezel and a broken lens somewhat more likely with this method.

Teaser for later :sunglasses:

I like where this is going :smiley:

Could I ask what temperature and airflow setting you used on your reflow station? I mostly work with 63/37 solder so I’m not sure if my usual settings are appropriate.

The airflow was set to 4, the temperature to 400. I have not measured the actual temp of the hotair stream, so i don’t really know how accurate this setting is.

Most ugliest driver ever

We do not need to look at it. Effective, that is important.

Do I spy a sense resistor?

Also, I’m fascinated at the level of simplicity to this diver knowing it’s performance. Does anyone think we can reverse engineer this design? Are there proprietary components?

Maybe lexel and Toykeeper can but both of them are like fire and ice :smiley:

indeed it look simple and it perform so well + efficient.

Question for the Zebralight modders here. Has anybody tried installed Lee minus green filters underneath the glass? If yes, is it a tight fit to get the bezel and glass back on the light? Any way to get the filter installed security over the glass to prevent opening the light?

Thanks

I acutally spent some time thinking about this recently. With a press fit bezel and reflector I worry about the filter material shifting or wrinkling under the glass as it’s pressed against the o-ring or during use. The only way I might consider pressing the filter inside is if it were glued to the lens with something like UV LOCA, but I’ve never tried this and don’t know how well it would work. The other options are replacing the reflector with an optic so you have two surfaces to sandwich it between, or installing it over the glass with glue around the edge (or LOCA again I guess). The latter is described in a couple of old BLF comments.

Bob_McBob, thank you so much. BLF is such a great resource and I keep on learning so much thanks to people like yourself.
I really like the technique proposed by 1C3: (image below)

Sounds like putting it on the surface is a much better alternative, even if it means it may get scratched.
Is there any particular UV LOCA glue that you recommend?

I have some Lee filters on back order with Adorama. Will test them using this method as soon as I receive them!

Very interesting. Great job guys.

I’d love a SC64c with LH351 5000k 90cri, but I don’t think I’ll be able to reflow de led

Wow, this looks fantastic! Great work, moridin. :+1: Would this technique work on an SC52w, or is the pill design different (due to size)? Also, what candidate replacement emitters could work in it?

Any post-2011 or so Zebralight model should look similar inside. The big snag is Zebralight used XM-L2s in most of their lights before switching to XHP, so the only emitter swaps you can really do are a different CCT of XM-L2. You can’t even use XM-L2 EasyWhite because it’s a different voltage. Basically the same situation for all the XHP models. You can swap CCT, or install a HI instead of HD like moridin did. The only modern Zebralight models with interesting emitter swap options are the current generation ones that use XP-L2 like the SC64c. You can use any 3V emitter with standard XP pads like the 219B, LH351D, SST-20, etc.

Not sure I’d want to try that glue job.

If the glue wasn’t tacky enough, some of it would likely flow between the glass lens and the filter.

Talk about timing. Finally received my Zircon filter from B&H and used the above technique to apply it on one of my zebralights. That exact issue came up. The adhesive worked its way under the filter and formed an uneventful circle around the center of the glass. Not sure what it will be like if I decide to remove it. I obviously put too much adhesive!

The adhesive is slightly less clear than the areas without, but barely noticeable and only when pointing on a white wall.

As to tint, the XP-L2 is now below BBL, and absolutely stunning. Def better than my Nichia 219c 4000k lights. Output was reduced by about 25%, but barely noticeable in real use and well worth it to get rid of the green tint!