You need some good, liquid flux like Kester
I got Chipquik and Stannol. Should do?
What iron do you have?
The TS-100 from Banggood.
OK, then I will leave the previously installed R1206 on the Sinkpad. This is for a mod with a Lexel 7 amp driver.
Are you using a good 19v 3.42A power supply?
I don’t know much about that iron but the reviews on it seem pretty good.
Just make sure your tip is clean and you touch a bit of flux core solder to the end just before you attack the spring.
Are you cleaning the tip with a damp sponge? I used to usectgat, but it sucks too much heat from the tip. I use the brass coils that have flux in them now.
A 24V psu even. Also I watched the temperature while heating the spring, it doesn’t drop one degree, so it’s probably a heat transfer problem. But I’m already using the biggest tip available.
When I cleaned off all the old solder and applied my Sn63Pb37, everything becomes so easy from there on. So I guess it’s a combination of the solder used (very likely lead-free, because it’s not shiny at all) and thermal transfer.
Or do I need any specialized flux or tip when reworking lead-free?
I wouldn’t assume that temperature readout is accurate in real time. If your transferring heat from the iron to the object then it should definitely drop down.
If the readout is accurate, then maybe there is not much heat transfer. Do you think it’s possible the factory soldered piece has some type of clear coating on it to protect it? If there’s a coating, it may be acting as an insulator. You might try scraping on the factory solder and then try to melt it.
Emisar D4 and D1
Could you reverse the red/black wires on say the D1 head and fit it to the tail of the D4, to make a double headed (working) flashlight?
No, the driver circuit requires the correct polarity to operate. You would need a special battery with the positive center on both ends like you get with a battery carrier.
How do I open up a 4sevens Quark123 Mini’s head?
Inside of the head can be seen here: https://www.flashlightreviews.ca/MiniAA-123.htm
Can somebody point me to website that sells a triple LED of any brand, already mounted on PCB in parallel, 3000K, 90+ CRI powered by 3.6v. All of those requirements are mandatory. I’ve checked all the most common places, I think, and find 4000k, 80 CRI, etc, but none with all of the above specs. Checked Virence, MTN, Intl Outdoor, Kaidomain. Thanks.
Edit: Found it at Kaidomain
Anyone? I want to get on this, but I can’t get it open. Already heated it to 100°C and tried to pull and twist out the pill to no avail.
I have no idea. The pill on the OTR M3 and it’s clone is a press fit, but it has a bezel to get the reflector out.
This one, I don’t know. Has anyone ever taken one apart?
Who takes those x-ray pix of lights?
Might show if pieces are threaded or press-fit.
Alright so today I got to the point that I was ready to break stuff to find out how much force it needed to open this light. And oh boy, stuff did break.
I had to stabilize the needlenose pliers with some water pump pliers, because it started to heavily bend sideways. (it’s a Knipex btw, so ne cheap china stuff)
So I got the pill untwisted to like the last 10% and the driver popped out at that point. I could see that the needlenosepliers already dug so deep sideways into the PCB that components were removed.
Do I feel relieved now? Yes! Threw the light in the bin now and we both can rest.
P.S.: Same goes for my Lumintop Tool, there’s no way this unscrews without breaking anything. But I leave it alive for now.
depends on how much current that single cell can deliver and the design of the boost driver.
why does the bushmaster logo clearly depict a rattlesnake?
I just pull out the board with the LEDs and wire ’em up for outdoor signs, etc.