Luminus SST-20-W 4000 K CRI95 color and output test

It’s a little off topic, because i’m trying to dedome the CRI 70 5000K version, hoping to get an ‘XP-G2 killer’ LED.
So CRI and tint doesn’t really matter.
All that matters in this case is dome removal.
Yeah, i think we’ll have to settle for shaving. But the bond wires limit how close you can shave.

You do want to get as close to the die surface as possible. If you are good with a razor you can slice below the level of the bond wires for most of die while leaving the area around the bond wires thicker. It ends up looking a little like in this thread .

Hmm… I seriously wonder if replacing the bond wires is easier…

What's your experience dedoming XHP50As in hot fuel/white spirit? Does it mess with the phosphors?

Cheers :-)

I modded an Olight S15 Baton with the led of the OP (also obtained from Kaidomain), it is its fourth led now but this one stays in. It is making a lousy 120 lumen at highest setting (stock cool XM-L2=260lumen, note that the throw will be hardly different from stock because of the small die-size of the SST-20) but the tint is perfect. Perfect as in the absolute sense, as you can see in the colour data. Either this led does particularly nice things in a small smooth reflector, or I got lucky with a led closer to the BBL than the led tested by maukka.

Hotspot on maximum setting:

Spill just outside of the hotspot:

In none of the output settings or postion in the beam the CRI got under 97.

The hotspot that the SST-20 produces in the S15 btw is tighter than the hotspot with a 219C.

not even 0.5A, what is this 1999 djozz.

Thanks for the results, mine should be arriving this week I think. At which point all my new LEDs go in a E2L triple, only the best host ever.

Is your SST20 from Kaidomain, djozz?

Maybe, if you have access to something like surgery robot because no one has that steady hands :slight_smile:

Yes it is from Kaidomain.

Thanks for posting the test results. From the very few examples I’ve tried, putting the emitter in a reflector makes the tint yellower/greener. I’m surprised you got even better tint than tested by Maukka.

I really like the tint of the three SST-20 I got from KD, even if it’s above the BBL.


EE X6 SST-20 4000K CUTE-3-SS optic (left) BLF Q8 XP-L HD V6 3D (right)

I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels…
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI :slight_smile:

How do they compare in tint. I have the 3000k’s and love them. Still in doubt to try the 4000k’s.

It is a great way to end up under the BBL, what we all love so much (but is considered as undesirable in the lighting industry).


( from: https://store.yujiintl.com/blogs/high-cri-led/revolutionary-tunable-white-led-yuji-spectrum-x-series )

The 4000K on their own are quite pleasant, at least under TIR (didn’t try in a reflector).
What I really like is that they have a small die (like XP-G2) so the throw is improved compared with 219C

Thanks for the link djozz! It explains why some experienced members tend to say that tint-mixed beams are so good.

Or you could have two greenish emitters, and as long as they are sufficiently far apart CCT wise, it’ll work as well.

That's very interesting! So "average tint" is always somewhere on straight line between CCT1 and CCT2?

By using logic, it seems it's better to use two LEDs with large CCT difference, at least when below BBL is desirable.

3000K+5700K seems to be best combination for most LEDs.

I wonder what is the procedure for 3+ different CCTs?

With three emitters you could theoretically cover the whole triangle they create by adjusting the output.

With the Zanflare T1 and its infinitely adjustable CCT, the effect on two emitters is clear as well.

Yes, it's very easy to see from that graph why is better to use 3000K+5700K emitters than 4000K+5000K emitters to get ~4500K tint, first combination has much better chance to be under BBL.