OK. My views on everything.
There should be a substantial stainless steel connection for a three leg stand. The hole for the tripod must have a complete water barrier internally. With no possibility of being penetrated/destroyed by a long attachment screw. Is making a tripod for the lantern being considered? The Q8 version of the bottom cap may not be strong enough for holding a small tripod in a center hole. The lantern will be tipped over, and worse. This is a potential weak point. If making a tripod, be sure you look at the leg spread required to minimize tipping the vertical mass, and uneven surfaces.
Flats bad; knurled good. No apparent reason to have flats except possibly around the control button.
Sloped plastic surround; maybe not so good. It could be done with a standard piece of plastic tubing; lower cost. Perhaps more durable/scratch resistant than the current selection. Top heat sink could possibly get smaller diameter but thicker heat sink/more fins if needed. The overall heat management needs to consider a range of environmental conditions. Is it zero F or 100 F? Both could be possible. Straight tubing would make it simpler to apply a removable shield to mask some areas of light. Much easier to find a replacement in case of damage.
Battery carriers have some significant merit. No carriers and extension tubes are one of the few things I did not like in my Q8s. First, the newer battery formats need to be accommodated. I have seen little preparation for new formats. Preferably using inserts in the carriers for the 18650s. In a year or two, we will be saying “Why on earth did we not consider the new battery formats that are replacing 18650s”. The carriers with extension tubes could double or triple the run time of the lamp even with just 18650s. I bought a TK75 for this feature. At bedside it has a 1 segment tube. In the closet is a tube for 3 carriers with charged batteries sitting with the tube. The sizing for the tripod would need to be designed to control tipping with a new center of gravity.
I do not believe it is reasonable to include external charging, charging phones, or jump starting your SUV. Anything not directly connected to it being a lantern. There should be a thoroughly sealed control button penetrating the shell; no additional holes in the shell using “stick in” sealing (none when doing external functions in the rain). I have multiple devices (phones, radios, etc.) where these little rubber plugs have shown their inability to work over time, or still be attached after some use (and just normal infrequent use). I think most people will use these lights in two ways. Emergency lighting; camping. I do not see many people wandering around holding up a lantern rather than a flashlight.
Using/charging the batteries in the lamp should not be a feature. There are many many inexpensive and compact external battery packs to charge your phones. Not to mention your vehicle. Why suck run time from the lantern. IT IS A LANTERN. Not a source of getting power to watch a program you just can’t miss.
If we absolutely need to have these, I would want the type C connectors. It is where we are going. Using another version of USB or other protocols is just stupid. For a few dollars you can get a cable for the type C. There is no reasonable way you can fix the lantern if it is not type C. It boils down to type C now with an adapter (if needed), or adapters for all your nice new stuff.
Efficiency of the lamp should be the number one electronic priority. Whatever electronics are used; this should be the absolute guiding objective. IT IS A LAMP.
I do not view radiation frequency variations as a useful addition. I can live with it, if it does not reduce run time or increase cost. Otherwise, over a rather long time, I have been exposed to all of the visible spectrum (think walking outside on a sunny day). Some bands in the visible spectrum I like more than others. But I JUST DON’T CARE IN A PORTABLE LANTERN. If there is no cost or loss of lighting efficiency for variable spectrum; OK. Otherwise no; IT IS A LANTERN.