So you measured 2 lights with the tube.
Then you measured both with ceiling-bounce (cb) and set the factor in cb to a value, so that cb shows the same amount of lumens as the tube?
This way you could get reliable results with cb afterwards for all other lights…
(not taking into account, that different reflector characteristics will for sure also have a large effect on the results)
Yeah, that was what I was referring to. I’ve modded a few lights (not that many compared to others, but Skyray V2, 9xT6, Solarforces, BTU, etc) and each time it is easy to desolder and solder the PCB leads when the copper PCB is on those white thermal paste. Replace that with Arctic Silver 5, and you actually struggle to solder leads to the PCB, the heat is just pulled away too fast and I have a 80W 380’C regulated soldering iron. With the fat tip you have to hold it quite some time to warm up the PCB, PCB shelf and wires.
That led me to thinking that while better thermal paste won’t give you more lumens OTF on a cold start, it might give you a higher sustained lumens OTF because the LED wouldn’t start thermal throttling, and it might even prolong LED life? If I can open my GT70, I’ll do a comparative test when I get it
If I´ve to solder wires to a copper MCPCB, I try something like this:
Put the thermalpaste on the ground, put two pieces of metal (heat-resistant) on the ground and than the MCPCB on it.
So the heat isn´t pulled away too fast any longer.
After soldering you can remove the small pieces of metal and press the MCPCB down and rotate it a little bit to evenly sread the thermal paste.
I’ve found my 80W Yihua 995D soldering station can’t unsolder certain mcpcb leads (30mm copper). The 995D would melt the top part of the solder blob then the whole head of the flashlight would get hotter and hotter.
Then I tried my cheap Velleman 50W and it can melt it very easily and quickly without heating up the whole head.
It’s theorized, and it seems plausible, that it’s the somewhat loose fit of the tip onto the heating element that is not allowing good heat transfer. It’s said that the genuine Hakko tips have a tighter fit to the heating element and is one if the reasons they perform so well. I’ll try to test this theory soon.
I had that same problem when using the china tips, ever since switching to the hakko tips I can solder mcpcb’s mounted to a light with good thermal paste without an issue as long as the substrate has enough thermal resistance. The clemance mcpcb’s are hard to solder no matter what for example.
I used to think my station was the issue until I also switched to hakko tips, now even my cheap $15 soldering iron works great and I find myself using it a fair amount, I keep a large tip on 1 of them and a small on the other.
Same here TA, this has to be one of the first things I discovered after joining, I have a Yihua 936 and started with some sort of knock off tips and then Richard RMM and I were chatting and I explained some issues I was having so actually it was RMM that clued me offhandedly by telling me he never has the problems I was referring to and I asked what tips he preferred and it’s the T18 series and so my thinking is if it’s good for RMM then it will be excellent for me and it’s stayed that way.
I found that the Shape B became my do everything and anything tip, and just as a thought this tip is probably the best for anyone new to soldering, I think you can hardly fail with this tip, worth looking at even if your an old hand at soldering but haven’t tried these. Shape B and examples
Sorry, my mistake. On my device the Determine order button wasn’t onscreen until I scrolled. There wasn’t any Enter button near the coupon field so I hit Enter and it moved to a page with only the checkout option.
I got the D24 with the Hakko station and I liked it alot, still do… then I tried the S3,D32 and D16, but then I found this kit… with the S3 D32 D24….Amazon.com Pretty good deal and you get the 2 Conical tips for like free…
Can anyone comment on the diameter of their heating element? I want to make sure my element is not undersized. I got about 3.86mm on mine and 4.21mm on the tip ID. That’s a 0.35mm gap.
