6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

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JasonWW
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Lexel wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
You don’t have to buy a roll of leds, there are small kits with different colors, like sampler kits, you can buy. The only down side is it comes from China, so it might take 2+ weeks for them to get in. Lexels L6 switch costs about $3 USD and can have 4 leds on it. Each led has it’s own resistor and he can match the values so all the colors are the same brightness. Here are some pictures I got from F.i.l.a.s. These are the only pictures I’ve ever seen of his L6 switch. It’s kind of new thing and not well known yet. You just run one power wire for the leds, one power wire for the switch and one ground wire to it.

 


Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?


 


You have to define what driver you are refering to.

Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.

No, pretty much all drivers have at least one MCU controlled LED pinout (1S 3 Channel, 2S 2 Channel)
on most recent drivers I have also one pin with a resistor to vcc or 5V LDO added, so both Switch LED channels can be simply soldered to a pad and have a resistor on the driver


I say yes, you say no. Did I misunderstand the question? The second half of our answers are the same. I’m confused.
Lexel
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It is described in post 4.

old boards

new boards

L MCU controlled LED (over a resistor)
LS battery or 5V (depending where the resistor is soldered and if its 1 or 2S driver)
S switch
G common ground

on the switch board there are 2 indipendant LED positive pads you can route to L and LS as you like

I also added boards with 2 LEds in series for 2S drivers so the standby current of the LEDs can be cut in half for types with forward voltage below 2.2V

klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?

You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.

 

I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?

Lexel
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klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?

You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.


 


I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?

sock driver means wiring switch to battery +

if switch board do not contain a resistor you have to add one usual values 10-50k depending on brightness and LED color

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Lexel wrote:
It is described in post 4. old boards !{width:95%}http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/IMG_4908a.jpg! new boards !{width:95%}http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/IMG_5560a.jpg! L MCU controlled LED (over a resistor) LS battery or 5V (depending where the resistor is soldered and if its 1 or 2S driver) S switch G common ground on the switch board there are 2 indipendant LED positive pads you can route to L and LS as you like I also added boards with 2 LEds in series for 2S drivers so the standby current of the LEDs can be cut in half for types with forward voltage below 2.2V

 

Are those the stock L6 boards?

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Lexel wrote:
klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?

You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.

 

I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?

sock driver means wiring switch to battery +

 

Ok, thanks Lexel!

Lexel
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klrman wrote:

Lexel wrote:
It is described in post 4. old boards new boards L MCU controlled LED (over a resistor) LS battery or 5V (depending where the resistor is soldered and if its 1 or 2S driver) S switch G common ground on the switch board there are 2 indipendant LED positive pads you can route to L and LS as you like I also added boards with 2 LEds in series for 2S drivers so the standby current of the LEDs can be cut in half for types with forward voltage below 2.2V

 


Are those the stock L6 boards?

No those are my drivers in different revisions

JasonWW
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klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?

You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.


 


I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?


Okay, this is why I ask since there are many drivers that can fit the L6.

The stock FX-30 driver has no proper output for side switch lights. On this one you have to power your switch lights from a constant power source such as the positive lead going to the LED. You also have to make sure to add a resistor to reduce the voltage. The switch light will turn on and off with the tail switch. Look at my L6 and Mini L6 links to see how I wired them. It is not too hard.

klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?

You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.

 

I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?

Okay, this is why I ask since there are many drivers that can fit the L6. The stock FX-30 driver has no proper output for side switch lights. On this one you have to power your switch lights from a constant power source such as the positive lead going to the LED. You also have to make sure to add a resistor to reduce the voltage. The switch light will turn on and off with the tail switch. Look at my L6 and Mini L6 links to see how I wired them. It is not too hard.

 

Thanks Jason, will look now at your links and see if I can do it!

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Looking to order a couple drivers for my H03 please. With temp and lvp precalibrated. And I guess the short springs? Whichever spring is most commonly ordered with this driver, it’s my first time.

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Hi Lexel,
I’m not sure if this was long ago asked, do you have a 21mm driver planned for use in the Sofirn C8F 21700 version? So e-switch, Narsil (Anduril?), FET+7135, no components at battery side because of thick retaining ring. A nasty feature of this host is that the rim on which the driver rests is rather wide, more than a mm (I can measure the exact width if needed), so the components should not be much further to the side than a 17mm driver.
If you can make this, I’m interested!

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Same thing as djozz too.

The C8F 21700 looks dope, and I would love a driver with it in a triple NarsilM linear+FET arrangement, or even a boost driver if possible.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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Lexel does not do Anduril and has no interest in it. Sorry.

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I ordered a 20mm e-switch driver from him for the 21700 C8F host. Not sure if it shipped yet or not but I guess we will see how it fits or what mods I need to make to get it to work when it arrives.

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For C8F with 21700 I need excact measurements for the driver to make a new design, could be basically a modified 17mm one

I hope Sofirn does at least modified the head so the MCPCB gets screwed on the head, got always shorting issues with the original design as often the head cut in the wires or if not screwed on the reflector shorting to reflector

20mm might work, I can sand it bigger after cutting out from a 10×10cm board so its 21mm but copper only 20mm wide
not sure if the silkscreen of the 20mm will be a problem with the retaining ring

I have downloaded Anduril a while ago but never come to really use it as it was mostly a problem to get it work with Atmel Studio
Today I tried to download the BLF GT Anduril Hex but not found on server

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http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/

here is the latest hex files for each popular light

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I worked today on Ramping IOS and Anduril and got both working to compile a hex without errors in Atmel Studio

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Goodness

Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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Lexel wrote:
I worked today on Ramping IOS and Anduril and got both working to compile a hex without errors in Atmel Studio
Thumbs Up Cool, thanks.
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Question, Is there a boost driver with Narsil firmware? I just purchased a Lumintop ODL20C that uses a XHP-35 HI Led powered by a single 26650 cell and was wondering about modding potential for this little pocket rocket.

Thanks!
AlexGT

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AlexGT wrote:
Question, Is there a boost driver with Narsil firmware? I just purchased a Lumintop ODL20C that uses a XHP-35 HI Led powered by a single 26650 cell and was wondering about modding potential for this little pocket rocket.

Thanks!
AlexGT


AFAIK he is still working on his boost drivers getting the software side of things to work properly.

Modding potential for the ODL20C is unknown. If it has the integrated side switch on the driver (like the ODF30), then you might be screwed. You’d need to design a driver from scratch or somehow rig up a side switch.

If it has a seperate switch, you are in a better position. Unfortunately, we are still waiting for boost drivers. MTN E has released his first boost driver, but it’s a small diameter and small powered. The ODL20C needs a bigger driver with more power. Richard also hasn’t got his e-switch firmware working on them.

It may be several more months before we see any proper e-switch boost drivers. Maybe 6 months, maybe more.

Ps, you’ll probably loose the built in charging.

Personally, I would not mod the ODL20C. I would start with a Utorch UT02 for about $25 because it’s cheap and I know it has a seperate switch. Then swap the driver once we have a good boost driver available.

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Hi JasonWW, will it be possible to retain usb charging if one swaps the driver of the UT02?

Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Hi JasonWW, will it be possible to retain usb charging if one swaps the driver of the UT02?

It’s highly unlikely, unless your a really good modder and electrical engineer. On the plus side, the charging board in the UT02 looks seperate. You’d need to figure out how to attach it’s wires to your aftermarket driver.

In looking up driver pics I see the UT02 might be glued. Then again, the ODL20C might be glued. My ODF30 was glued between the battery tube and head. It was a beast to get loose.

You might check if your ODL20C is glued or not.

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JasonWW wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
Hi JasonWW, will it be possible to retain usb charging if one swaps the driver of the UT02?

It’s highly unlikely, unless your a really good modder and electrical engineer. On the plus side, the charging board in the UT02 looks seperate. You’d need to figure out how to attach it’s wires to your aftermarket driver.

In looking up driver pics I see the UT02 might be glued. Then again, the ODL20C might be glued. My ODF30 was glued between the battery tube and head. It was a beast to get loose.

You might check if your ODL20C is glued or not.

I see what you mean. It’s a pity because some of us actually want to retain the USB charging. I wish more manufacturers would integrate the USB charging into tnr battery tube like the Haikelite SC01/SC02. Thanks anyway JasonWW

Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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Lexel wrote:
I worked today on Ramping IOS and Anduril and got both working to compile a hex without errors in Atmel Studio

Mind if I ask what parameters you used for Anduril?

I wonder, because I’ve decided that’s what I want to flash onto the H03 drivers you’ve sent me.

I’ve been doing some research, and the closest I can find is something in the main Anduril thread where someone said “The TA uses 3 power channels, so the #define for the FW3A might work.”

So I’m assuming that’s a good starting point? Does anyone know if this still holds true?

Sorry, I know Anduril isn’t your thing and you’re just getting started in it. I just love this UI so stinking much I flashed all my compatible lights over to it already.

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FF ROT66 should be also compatible

you got to look in the setup files for the lights that contain the ramping table and mode sets

ma tumba
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I need another 15mm driver with presoldered 2× 2-inch wires and a short spring. Plus a custom programming as follows. What would be the cost of this? Thank you!

1. TURBO should be set at 0.002*FET (yes ~10ma)

2. custom modes:
1: 2, one7135, all7135
2: 3, one7135, all7135
3: 5, one7135, all7135
4: 6, one7135, all7135
5: 7, one7135, all7135
6: 4,6, one7135, all7135
7: 4,7, one7135, all7135
8: 5,7, one7135, all7135

9-22: default

23: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8
24: 6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13
25: 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18
26: 1,one7135,3,one7135,5,one7135,7,one7135
27: 6,all7135,10,all7135,14,all7135,18,all7135

Plus intl shipping

Thanks!

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Lexel wrote:
FF ROT66 should be also compatible

you got to look in the setup files for the lights that contain the ramping table and mode sets

Ok thanks! The ramping table, as in the code that tells the driver exactly how to combine the fet and 7135 to get the correct current for each step in the ramp? I assume that changes depending on hardware config?

Sorry, this is the wrong place for this. BLF is hard to navigate through all the information.

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ma tumba wrote:
I need another 15mm driver with presoldered 2× 2-inch wires and a short spring. Plus a custom programming as follows. What would be the cost of this? Thank you!

1. TURBO should be set at 0.002*FET (yes ~10ma)

2. custom modes:
1: 2, one7135, all7135
2: 3, one7135, all7135
3: 5, one7135, all7135
4: 6, one7135, all7135
5: 7, one7135, all7135
6: 4,6, one7135, all7135
7: 4,7, one7135, all7135
8: 5,7, one7135, all7135

9-22: default

23: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8
24: 6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13
25: 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18
26: 1,one7135,3,one7135,5,one7135,7,one7135
27: 6,all7135,10,all7135,14,all7135,18,all7135

Plus intl shipping

Thanks!

Lowest step is 1/255 for FET, AMCs usually 2-3

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beastlykings wrote:
Lexel wrote:
I worked today on Ramping IOS and Anduril and got both working to compile a hex without errors in Atmel Studio

Mind if I ask what parameters you used for Anduril?

I wonder, because I’ve decided that’s what I want to flash onto the H03 drivers you’ve sent me.

I’ve been doing some research, and the closest I can find is something in the main Anduril thread where someone said “The TA uses 3 power channels, so the #define for the FW3A might work.”

So I’m assuming that’s a good starting point? Does anyone know if this still holds true?

Sorry, I know Anduril isn’t your thing and you’re just getting started in it. I just love this UI so stinking much I flashed all my compatible lights over to it already.

If you can wait until tomorrow, I can send you my Anduril config for the H03.

In general, the ramping levels are from the FW3A while the button light things are from the D4S.

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