I like naming schemes which indicate what the product actually is. ZebraLight is a good example:
SC for a standard carry flashlight, or H for a headlamp.
3, 5, 6, or 7 for 16[3]40, 14[5]00, 18[6]50, or 21[7]00 battery.
Sometimes a 0 to indicate, um, a different flavor? (a mule headlamp or a slightly larger flashlight)
Another digit to indicate the generation number. (usually, but sometimes omitted or 0)
Optional F for frosted lens.
Optional c, d, or w for high-[C]RI 4000K, high-CRI [d]aylight tint, or a [w]armer-than-default neutral white tint.
Optional other suffixes to indicate revision or emitter type, like “Mk IV” or “HI”.
It’s not all completely straightforward, and not all completely consistent. Like, I have no idea why the SC600 series uses “Mk IV” to indicate a 4th generation, unlike the “4” digit used for everything else. And I don’t know why the SC5 lacks a version/generation number entirely. But still, it’s more consistent than most other companies I’ve seen.
Out for delivery…weeeeeeee. Hehehehe. Wooooohooooo
Awesome. Played with it until my niece swung it round & round until she snapped the lanyard. She’s not talking to me now. The light is brighter than the r9080 version. Slightly greenish but pleasant nonetheless. Super low mode. 3 of the LEDs are brighter than the rest though. Is there a way to turn off the auxiliary LEDs?
I think the only way to turn them off is to disconnect the battery. If I understand correctly, the aux LED board is connected directly to the battery, so the attiny cannot control it.
Is that the direction that Fireflies went? They didn’t wire it into the MCU controlled side switch light? I guess the easiest way to find out is if the auxiliary lights turn off and on in sync with the switch lights.
People were talking earlier about the ROT66 being sensitive to bumps. I wasn’t able to make mine do anything wrong though, even with fairly short cells installed. Anyway, today my ROT66 fell about 1.5m onto a linoleum floor… and it didn’t even skip a beat. No change at all in the light output, and no visible dents or scratches on it. I’m not sure the floor is completely intact, but the light is totally fine.
Since I have my ROT66 in front of me. I decided to put it on turbo and hammering it against my palm repeatedly with a lot of force and did not see a single blink. I have the stainless steel tail cap but I doubt that makes any difference at all.
SKV89 know that you are crazy about the quality of light and that’s why I’m curious what version you chose. What LEDs ?. I think about ROT66 myself, but Nichia is too much under BBL.
I bought 3 ROT66 with 219B. One for my friend and two for myself since these emitters are supposedly going extinct… I was going to buy an XPL-HI 3A v3 version too but will wait until they get the manufacturing issues fixed on that one.
It really isn’t much rosier than the 5D tint Emisar flashlights that I have. In fact, it’s not even as rosy as the XPG2 in the Enogear AA Stainless Steel. Now I’m so used to it, I don’t even notice it’s rosy. I thought something went wrong with the emitters after too much use. It just looks natural white to me. However when I compare it with my other non A or D tint flashlights, they all look yellow/green. At night, when I use it on natural vegetation, it is the closest to sunlight I’ve seen. I love it!
I can say, that the FB4 tint of SST-20 is already much better than Nichia 219C regarding perceived BBL position.
I have Nichia 219C 4000K in a Lumintop IYP365 penlight, and I have a Jaxman E2L as well with the same LED as comparison.
I just finished a rather simple Convoy S2+ build with TIR lens and a 7 mode driver (10-100%), and I tested it with a 25 degree beaded lens on an evening bike ride. While I still like the tint of 219C 4000K, I can notice, that it is noticeably greener and yellower than the FB4 SST-20. Also, I can ‘feel’ the slightly better spectrum coverage of the latter.
I have also 4×E21A 4000K from Clemence in a Skilhunt H03 - that felt me a little bit warmer, and it has a slight further extra ‘touch of’ deep red, but FB4 SST-20 is already very good in deep red.
