Another boost gain using proper optic: 1400 OTF lumens in R9080! 300 lm gained over stock TIR optic.
As the LED die size increase, TIR optic selection becomes more critical.
4x sm653 D240 E21A R9080 are certainly outputs lower than an XHP50 CRI 70, but combined with proper optics the OTF output is dramatic.
I measured the output of 4000K (D220), 4500K (2x 3000K D200 + 2x 4000K D220), and 6500K (D240). Then I interpolated the lowest possible number using the flux bin to get approximation of 2000K D160 output. The flux bins adhere closely to the measured output. D240 E21A gets much brighter than XHP50 at lower current.
I’d like to understand why did you gain that 27%, but I fail so far…
How did you modify the optics?
Do I understand correctly that the emitting surface doesn’t fully fit in the lens opening? I guess opening is what you call aperture?
Assuming yes…there are just a fairly small corners that are under the flats. Even if light from them went straight through the optics without any loss…that doesn’t seem to be 27% of LES…and the OEM TIR doesn’t black it out, it should pass most of it forward as well.
I’m also wondering how this is happening. Unless my TASI 632A light meter messed up with the reading. Member Bob_mcbob got the same improvement much earlier than me. He got whooping increase too using the same optic I used on his Tiara and Wizard. But his gain was not as dramatic as these E21A.
Measured many times and got consistent results.
Yes the LES doesn’t fit inside the lens opening (aperture). The optic sits at 0,025mm above the LEDs. The other logical answer is the narrower emission angle of E21A.
Currently (several hours ago) I only have three of them, but they’re all sold out before even hit the store. I have incoming Tiaras waiting at the custom.
I just recently modded a non-pro Wizard because I want to use 3V LEDs. The process of modding it is the same.
The biggest difference are the missing LEDs under the button cap. This lead to them using the main LED for the low-voltage warning which I find dangerous when you are using it for running for example (it starts to blink on and off a few times).
The other difference is the U.I. It doesn’t have the two mode groups in addition to the turbo, only one.
I am too using the non-pro version so i know it characteristic, but i want to know does it have pot in the inside, the real lumen, does it stand true for what the company say it is. How is its efficiency, ….things like that. Will you share your modding work pics on the wizard noob :D?
The driver is potted. This is the same for all Wizards. I don’t know the efficiency, but it’s probably fine. Only the the XHP50 Wizard is inefficient when using a 12V LED.
Here are the pics of my Wizard XHP50 mod. The only difference to the non-pro Wizard is the LED (text is in German). Everythink else looks identical.
I already saw this and didn’t reconise it was you :). Still a little upset for not seing the nonpro version mod making process.
Everything is identical like the driver, the thermal sensor and so on? So because the nonpro version use the 3V LED so the efficiency is ok right? God what a relief
Ich freue mich sehr dass ich nicht die pro version gekauft habe :partying_face:
The older (non pro, non ribbed) version driver is the same as the newer Tiara except for the UI. It’s more efficient than the XHP50 version especially in Turbo mode but not as bright. The real output is in 700ish lumens for the older XPL.
Thanks man. Oh one more thing, does any one notice how the nonpro version will blink everytime you bump the taipcap (e.g stick the magnet tail onto a metal object). I believe this happen because the light use only 1 spring in the battery compartment, but why don’t this happen to the pro one?
I did, no help. I also tried protected cell wich is longer and still can’t fix it. I also tried 6 different tail cap with thesame result. And this happen to every nonpro light but not the pro version
How did you modify your optic to make such more light output? Did you drill it to make more space?
Also I notice you use different led piece for your flashlight, use 4000k and 5000k of two each; why do you do that and does it make better overall tint and CRI? but does it make light color look odd (diagonal different color) or is it not possible to see after use optic to diffuse?
