I am too using the non-pro version so i know it characteristic, but i want to know does it have pot in the inside, the real lumen, does it stand true for what the company say it is. How is its efficiency, ….things like that. Will you share your modding work pics on the wizard noob :D?
The driver is potted. This is the same for all Wizards. I don’t know the efficiency, but it’s probably fine. Only the the XHP50 Wizard is inefficient when using a 12V LED.
Here are the pics of my Wizard XHP50 mod. The only difference to the non-pro Wizard is the LED (text is in German). Everythink else looks identical.
[quote=The_Driver]
I already saw this and didn’t reconise it was you :). Still a little upset for not seing the nonpro version mod making process.
Everything is identical like the driver, the thermal sensor and so on? So because the nonpro version use the 3V LED so the efficiency is ok right? God what a relief
Ich freue mich sehr dass ich nicht die pro version gekauft habe :partying_face:
The older (non pro, non ribbed) version driver is the same as the newer Tiara except for the UI. It’s more efficient than the XHP50 version especially in Turbo mode but not as bright. The real output is in 700ish lumens for the older XPL.
- Clemence
Are we looking at 700ish lumens peak or average number?
Thanks man. Oh one more thing, does any one notice how the nonpro version will blink everytime you bump the taipcap (e.g stick the magnet tail onto a metal object). I believe this happen because the light use only 1 spring in the battery compartment, but why don’t this happen to the pro one?
Its easy to fix. Pull the spring a little to make it longer.
I did, no help. I also tried protected cell wich is longer and still can’t fix it. I also tried 6 different tail cap with thesame result. And this happen to every nonpro light but not the pro version
Super gei 
so is turbo OTF 1200 Lumens?.
E21A x 4. 6500
thanks.
How did you modify your optic to make such more light output? Did you drill it to make more space?
Also I notice you use different led piece for your flashlight, use 4000k and 5000k of two each; why do you do that and does it make better overall tint and CRI? but does it make light color look odd (diagonal different color) or is it not possible to see after use optic to diffuse?
What are the dimensions of the glass lens of the Wizard?
I did that because there wasn’t 4500K pure CCT. It works fine and many of our friends like it too. Now we know that mixing CCTs can also move the tint above/below BBL to fine tune your preferred tint (not CCT). If you want to see how a mixed CCTs looks like you can check Steel_1024, SKV89, Texas_Ace, Ryzbor, and many other’s beam shots.
19,8mm x 1mm. Get it cheap via Kaidomain
A bit more than that. Ask Bob_McBob, he just built another 6500K E21A Wizard Pro. I have none left to test
[Clemence]
so what driver is in Clemence’s Wizard Pro’s E21A’s that were Built?.
Boost?.
thanks.
Boost.
thank you great Sword!.
Clemence, was the stock MCPCB easy to remove? I tried removing the MCPCB on my Prime C2 Pro. It doesn’t have retaining screws like the Wizard Pro, instead the positive and negative wires from the driver come through the screw holes. I got it tot move slightly but it just didn’t want to come out.
[Clemence]