I would have loved to test an array of 3000k and 5000k Samsung LEDs, but I haven’t actually ordered LH351Ds 2700-3000k to see how the tint mix would work at full power.
The problem is that I only have 3000k LH351Bs and 4000k LH351Ds, and mixing them together would not be too smart since their forward voltage is different.
That accessory list is great. Especially the broader stand.
Also, I’d like to add that we need a quality manufacturer for the USB cable. 20-22AWG power is necessary at 12FT/4M. At that length, we need as little Vdrop as possible.
Definitely a higher-guage for the longer cable. I had a hard time finding goods ones, but have a 12 foot that handles high charge amps quite well.
Hi,
Interested in 1, thanks!
I’m in for one
For USB-C cables - try USB-C - The All-in-One Data, Video and Power Cable
If you buy a bunch, should get lower and may make to our specifications. I have found their products of good quality and good support.
Here is something else that could be useful. Maybe a handle. Cheap. Won’t rust. They are SS zip locks.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21581
And yes the vendor is reputable.
Wait, you’ve actually had a USB cable rust?
That’s really strange. I haven’t had any cable rust at all.
Then again, I’ve only ever bought high quality USB cables.
Speaking about this, I think we should perhaps have UGreen do the job with the USB cables. They’re an OEM which make excellent inexpensive high quality cables.
new additions to the interest list in the past 24 hours or so.
1030 Macnus
1031 Bullmajor
1032 timbo114
1033 Sukoi
1034 Tomogchi
So is 2700K set in stone now? I know it was between 3000K and 2700K. I love the idea of 2700K, but it is a huge drop in efficiency (almost double the losses from 5000K to 3000K) for a small change in temp.
not set in stone, but everyone seems to want the 2700K as the warm-end of the tint ramp. I only had the chance to test the 351B series of 3000K and 351D of 4000K, ( i have nto been able to get any 5000K to test or 2700K to test.
Not rusting USB. My fault. I left the link out. The item is some different length stainless steel zip locks. Some creative use could provide a strong non-rusting. handle or something. Just thought they were interesting.
The USB cables they have can get pretty long. Prices are good.
Please don’t forget about radiator on the top! 900 is too much for that small part with small surface area.
I thought about that. I haven’t had the time to add one or two more 7135s to the V2 prototype to test it on high for heat levels yet, but right now with four chips (1.4 amps) its gets hot, but not so hot to burn a hand. ( roughly 50 degrees C with my temp tester after a hour running. Maybe i may ask Toykeeper to see if its possible to program the firmware to step down a mode after 30 minutes if it got to hot if set at 1.75 amps on high.
Because the top only holds the LED star, the driver or cells are isolated from the heat. I have thought about adding fins to the head, but not sure how it will look. (i may have a look at that too)
God I can’t wait for this lantern, those specs look absolutely amazing!
I’d suggest using thermal regulation, but that’s physically not doable on this light.
However, if it’s an issue, one thing we can do is set the default ceiling values to a sane level… and then only turbo will be hotter. In practice, what that looks like is having a regular set of modes, plus one. So if it has modes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 in the normal range, turbo would only be 6 on a visual scale. It doesn’t look much brighter, even if there’s a significant temperature difference.
I thought that firmware have thermal control, isn’t it?
Thermal sensor should be it top part.
On the other hand it is not good for lamp if it change output from every gust of wind.
I think the best decision is one direction temperature control
The firmware has thermal regulation, but it won’t work in the lantern. The sensor is built into the MCU, which is in the middle section of the light. So it cannot sense LED temperature. They are too far apart.
An external sensor doesn’t work either, because the MCU has no pins left.
Maybe we could still use this internal sensor to automatically adjust the ceiling based on the ambiant temperature, but I think that a lamp this size shouldn’t have problems cooling a thousand lumens with a few cooling fins added. If that isn’t sufficient we could maybe try to use the center bolt as a heatpipe to the lower section and use it for cooling as well.
I also thought about this.
Central bolt made of steel it is bad heatpipe. But we can add copper pipe around the bolt. This also increase crushing strength of construction.
For example pipe d=10mm h=50mm thicknesses 2mm take 10W(definitely more than thermal power of lamp) with dt=20C.