Please tell me you are going to detail that mod in a thread on here. I have several A1’s new in the box and that just sounds like fun right there. 
I might 
I haven’t took any pics or anything yet, so I may have to get it operational and disassemble to take some pics to post up. I’m at a stand still right now, I think I shorted something while I was testing on my power supply and blew the mosfet. Ordered a new mosfet and reflowed it back in its place and now the drivers still acting weird. Waiting to see if Richard has any ideas on whats going on with it.
Noway I could keep a 14500 pocket rocket a secret.
I use an Eagletac D25A with a 14500 in it. Only problem is the mode spacing gets a little weird. Probably like 5-150-300
I agree with you about the width of the light being important. I carry a thrunite T10 on the inside front pocket. You can see my mods here. Edit: the deep carry pocket clip is also a big plus for me.
It sounds like the D25A is the right size, but it’s not bright enough and the tint is bad? To mod it you first have to take it apart, and this can be the hardest step because some manufactures use glue on the threads. Then I would use a FET+1 driver for use with a li-ion 14500. This will get you a low moonlight and also very bright turbo. Mtnelectronics has some small diameter drivers that might work for your light. Also switch out the LED for one of your choice on the correct size DTP (direct thermal path) MCPCB. Once you get it apart and post pictures we can help with part selection if you’re not sure.
I remember looking at many AA/14500 lights before I chose the T10. As you noticed most are too thick and/or use a side switch. So modding might be the best option to get all the features you want.
Excellent. Hope you get the mosfet problem sorted out. I know the basics of how a mosfet works but thats about it. I wouldn’t be any help figuring out that problem. Well now that the secrets out of the bag I will probably bug you until you get tired of me and post all of your hard work so us lowly beginners can plagiarize your work. 
Eagletac ti d25A early version (2012) does 600+ lumens on an old school xml
The Xeno ES1 is the same size width/length too .I like these lights because of their quality and I agree with you it's a good size AA light.
They also share the nifty Xeno diffuser with a flat top .one of the few wand diffusers i actually like .. it fits the eagletac like it was made for it.
The ES1 is listed as a AA only light and has the Olight style.. med /low high driver...but has the best looking tint cree NW 3B I've ever seen ..and I've seen a lot of bad 3B's :P
the low is one lumen which I like
Good luck on your quest ,Sounds like you'll need to mod a light
It’s the Eagletac D25a clicky that I have. It’s a very cool tint but for size that is about perfect. Maybe a bit longer.
I’ve never heard of Xeno. It looks like a good size I just wish it had more output.
D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.
They apparently don’t make it anymore and I don’t think it will allow 14500 or get the output. Is there a mod I can do?
My opinion to achieve what you want.
I don’t know the size of the driver, so a 15mm Mtnelectronics driver with 4 7135’s might work or 17mm with 4 7135’s removed filed down if its 16mm.
I think 4 7135’s will work with a nichia or samsung led in a high CRI to get you to the 500 lumen mark. 4 7135’s will give about 1400ma except on the 17mm driver, 4 will give about 1490ma. Its possible with the 17mm driver only 3 7135’s would be needed to reach 500 lumens depending on the led you use. I prefer the Samsung 4000k LH351D 90 CRI. The drivers from Mtn have different UI’s you can chose from.
If the D25a is your chosen size light but lacks other features, then modding it should get you your holy grail.
For most of us modders that’s the whole reason we do it, we can’t buy a light exactly like we want it.
The L3 L10 clicky would be a potential mod host of you didn’t want to mod the D25C.
What kind of tools would I need to do something like that?
That looks like a neat little light.
Jetbeam Jet 1 Mk. 1.5 to 480lm. 14500/AA twisty. .76” at knurling on the head, .66” battery tube. Great build quality, and inexpensive. I bought several a year or two ago in the 10 dollar each range. I don’t normally like twistys, but this is an exception.
Its hard to say exactly without knowing how everything is in the light. A soldering iron of 50 watts or more, solder, flux, probably a file, maybe needle nose pliers, thermal paste and a frying pan and stove.
What would I need a frying pan and stove for?
Girls gotta eat ..
To reflow the emitter onto the mcpcb...and snacks
That’s it. That method works good and you should already have what you need for this step. Sometimes it’s easier to reflow a new emitter on to the existing board in the light.
The new Eagtac D25a Clicky MKII?
I’m pretty much in the same boat. I’d just like a ramping interface toykeeper style.
I pretty much want Toykeeper’s interface in ALL my lights