The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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LichtAn
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The TS-100 from Banggood.

CNCman
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Cereal_killer wrote:
CNCman wrote:

I you have a driver, do you need the R1206 for correct operation in 12v configuration. Or do I remove and jump it with solder.
This is for a high amp mod. Question

For 12v operation you leave the jumpers open and short the R1206 pads (a 0ohm 1206 size resistor or a solder blob is fine), for 6v operation you leave the resistor pads open and sort the 2 jumper pads.

OK, then I will leave the previously installed R1206 on the Sinkpad. This is for a mod with a Lexel 7 amp driver.

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Good Intentions are no guarantee for Good Results.

JasonWW
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LichtAn wrote:
The TS-100 from Banggood.

Are you using a good 19v 3.42A power supply?

I don’t know much about that iron but the reviews on it seem pretty good.

Just make sure your tip is clean and you touch a bit of flux core solder to the end just before you attack the spring.

Are you cleaning the tip with a damp sponge? I used to usectgat, but it sucks too much heat from the tip. I use the brass coils that have flux in them now.

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LichtAn
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JasonWW wrote:
LichtAn wrote:
The TS-100 from Banggood.

Are you using a good 19v 3.42A power supply?

I don’t know much about that iron but the reviews on it seem pretty good.

Just make sure your tip is clean and you touch a bit of flux core solder to the end just before you attack the spring.

Are you cleaning the tip with a damp sponge? I used to usectgat, but it sucks too much heat from the tip. I use the brass coils that have flux in them now.

A 24V psu even. Also I watched the temperature while heating the spring, it doesn’t drop one degree, so it’s probably a heat transfer problem. But I’m already using the biggest tip available.
When I cleaned off all the old solder and applied my Sn63Pb37, everything becomes so easy from there on. So I guess it’s a combination of the solder used (very likely lead-free, because it’s not shiny at all) and thermal transfer.
Or do I need any specialized flux or tip when reworking lead-free?

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I wouldn’t assume that temperature readout is accurate in real time. If your transferring heat from the iron to the object then it should definitely drop down.

If the readout is accurate, then maybe there is not much heat transfer. Do you think it’s possible the factory soldered piece has some type of clear coating on it to protect it? If there’s a coating, it may be acting as an insulator. You might try scraping on the factory solder and then try to melt it.

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alchemi
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Emisar D4 and D1

Could you reverse the red/black wires on say the D1 head and fit it to the tail of the D4, to make a double headed (working) flashlight?

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alchemi wrote:
Emisar D4 and D1

Could you reverse the red/black wires on say the D1 head and fit it to the tail of the D4, to make a double headed (working) flashlight?


No, the driver circuit requires the correct polarity to operate. You would need a special battery with the positive center on both ends like you get with a battery carrier.

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LichtAn
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How do I open up a 4sevens Quark123 Mini’s head?

Inside of the head can be seen here: https://www.flashlightreviews.ca/MiniAA-123.htm

GreenLights
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Can somebody point me to website that sells a triple LED of any brand, already mounted on PCB in parallel, 3000K, 90+ CRI powered by 3.6v. All of those requirements are mandatory. I’ve checked all the most common places, I think, and find 4000k, 80 CRI, etc, but none with all of the above specs. Checked Virence, MTN, Intl Outdoor, Kaidomain. Thanks.

Edit: Found it at Kaidomain

Just discovered this wonderful addiction.

LichtAn
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LichtAn wrote:
How do I open up a 4sevens Quark123 Mini’s head?

Inside of the head can be seen here: https://www.flashlightreviews.ca/MiniAA-123.htm

Anyone? I want to get on this, but I can’t get it open. Already heated it to 100°C and tried to pull and twist out the pill to no avail.

JasonWW
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LichtAn wrote:
LichtAn wrote:
How do I open up a 4sevens Quark123 Mini’s head?

Inside of the head can be seen here: https://www.flashlightreviews.ca/MiniAA-123.htm

Anyone? I want to get on this, but I can’t get it open. Already heated it to 100°C and tried to pull and twist out the pill to no avail.


I have no idea. The pill on the OTR M3 and it’s clone is a press fit, but it has a bezel to get the reflector out.

This one, I don’t know. Has anyone ever taken one apart?

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Lightbringer
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Who takes those x-ray pix of lights?

Might show if pieces are threaded or press-fit.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

LichtAn
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Alright so today I got to the point that I was ready to break stuff to find out how much force it needed to open this light. And oh boy, stuff did break.
I had to stabilize the needlenose pliers with some water pump pliers, because it started to heavily bend sideways. (it’s a Knipex btw, so ne cheap china stuff)
So I got the pill untwisted to like the last 10% and the driver popped out at that point. I could see that the needlenosepliers already dug so deep sideways into the PCB that components were removed.
Do I feel relieved now? Yes! Threw the light in the bin now and we both can rest.

P.S.: Same goes for my Lumintop Tool, there’s no way this unscrews without breaking anything. But I leave it alive for now.

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depends on how much current that single cell can deliver and the design of the boost driver.

DIPSTIX wrote:
In a single cell flashlight using a boost driver. Is 3000 lumens about the maximum performance we can muster from an xhp-70.2?
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why does the bushmaster logo clearly depict a rattlesnake?

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“hi cri”:“http://budgetlightforum.com/node/51698
“polished turd”“:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36635

slmjim wrote:

Can a HF 9-led 3-AAA giveaway light be modified in any useful way economically?

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slmjim wrote:
Can a HF 9-led 3-AAA giveaway light be modified in any useful way economically?

snakebite wrote:
“hi cri”:“http://budgetlightforum.com/node/51698 “polished turd”“:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36635

I just pull out the board with the LEDs and wire ‘em up for outdoor signs, etc.

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joechina
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Lightbringer wrote:
Who takes those x-ray pix of lights?

Might show if pieces are threaded or press-fit.

Our Australian light Paint guy stephenk ??
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55011

Yupp
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56803

JasonWW
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snakebite wrote:
DIPSTIX wrote:
In a single cell flashlight using a boost driver. Is 3000 lumens about the maximum performance we can muster from an xhp-70.2?

depends on how much current that single cell can deliver and the design of the boost driver.

Woah, this question is from 8 months ago. Shocked

The limiting factor is driver and pcb design. The boards and components can only handle a certain amount of current before burning up.

Aftermarket boost driver builders like Lexel and Richard at MTN E can squeeze about 50 watts from them. This is roughly 6A@6v and 3A@12v. So maybe 4,000 lumen from a 70.2 with about a 15A to 16A draw on a good 26650 high drain battery.

Most of the OEMS are not pushing the limits. They tend to put out 4A to 5A at the emitter and 8A to 10A on the battery which is why we see 3,000 to 3,400 lumen most of the time.

An interesting deviation from the norm is the new Nitecore TM10K which normally does 1,000 lumen continous, but has a 6 second burst mode of 10,000 lumen! This pulls about 35A from the Samsung 48G 21700 battery. I think they built a special circuit just for this one high output mode. The battery they use is rated at 10A continous and 30A for 10 seconds.

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BlueSwordM
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And then we have Nitecore pushing 35A out of a 10A rated Samsung 48G with a 3,6V-12V boost driver.

Stupidly impressive, but it’s going to destroy the non replaceable cell.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

LichtAn
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Alright so I got a new driver sitting here. Need to connect the e-switch. I don’t know which cable is which. Can someone explain it to a baby how to find the correct cables?

Edit: Ground should be near 0 resistance between one cable and ground on the board right?

Edit2: Got it.

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After years of "maybe not always carefull" use my old Fenix L10 stoped working.

 

Using vise grip i was successful at removing the top part of the head wich let me access the led but the driver's pcb doesn't move at all.

Is it glued ? Is there way to remove the driver's pcb without destroying it all ?

JasonWW
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LichtAn wrote:
Alright so I got a new driver sitting here. Need to connect the e-switch. I don’t know which cable is which. Can someone explain it to a baby how to find the correct cables?

Edit: Ground should be near 0 resistance between one cable and ground on the board right?

Edit2: Got it.


It helps to say what driver and what light you have.

The e-switch is just a momentary switch that connects two wires. If there are no leds on the side switch circuit then polarity does not matter. Usually one wire goes to ground and the other wire will connect to a pin on the MCU that is looking for a ground signal.

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JasonWW
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LichtAn wrote:
The TS-100 from Banggood.

Hey, I just watched a review of this unit by Louis Rossmann. It packs a punch when running at 24v.

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penumbra
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about hunting trail camera’s…

i have one and they say : “ please note that the voltage of rechargeable AA batteries (1.2V) is insufficient to power this device”

my question is of this batteries good working with this ?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/10002551/1189303-powergenix-recha...

if this batteries good work ,i need special this charger ? they can’t load with xtar dragon charger ?

are there battery alternatifes for hunting camera ?

greets thx for answord

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Is it reasonably safe to put a protected 18650 (Sanyo NCR18650GA or LG INR18650MJ1) in a cheap USB rechargeable flashlight like the Sofirn SC31 and leave it with the USB charger cable plugged in for extended periods of time (days or weeks)? Or will i actually have to unplug the charger cable when its done charging for safety.

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vovamile wrote:
Is it reasonably safe to put a protected 18650 (Sanyo NCR18650GA or LG INR18650MJ1) in a cheap USB rechargeable flashlight like the Sofirn SC31 and leave it with the USB charger cable plugged in for extended periods of time (days or weeks)? Or will i actually have to unplug the charger cable when its done charging for safety.

It should be fine. The over-voltage protection circuitry in the battery will keep it from going over 4.2 volts plus the charger itself should stop at the same voltage. The only possible issue might be that after the charger stops working it has a small drain and it could slowly discharge the battery so that after a week your battery may be dead instead of fully charged and you have to charge it all over again. This is why it’s always good to unplug it after it’s done charging.

You can verify that the charger has stopped by using those little USB voltmeter / current meters that you can buy for $5 or $10.

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Umpi2000
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Would an sst-40 go into a blf a6, and would you get any output gains. If so what other mods/ parts are required?
Is there another LED that’d improve output for the blf a6?

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Umpi2000 wrote:
Would an sst-40 go into a blf a6, and would you get any output gains. If so what other mods/ parts are required?
Is there another LED that’d improve output for the blf a6?

It will fit. You need a bigger centering ring for an xml2. I don’t know if it will have higher output. I want to say yes due to its lower forward voltage, but maybe someone else can say for sure.

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Umpi2000
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Thanks I hope someone can help me with a how to on this or another LED more suitable or better for the A6

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