D25a ti nichia 4000k comes close to all you want.
They apparently don’t make it anymore and I don’t think it will allow 14500 or get the output. Is there a mod I can do?
My opinion to achieve what you want.
I don’t know the size of the driver, so a 15mm Mtnelectronics driver with 4 7135’s might work or 17mm with 4 7135’s removed filed down if its 16mm.
I think 4 7135’s will work with a nichia or samsung led in a high CRI to get you to the 500 lumen mark. 4 7135’s will give about 1400ma except on the 17mm driver, 4 will give about 1490ma. Its possible with the 17mm driver only 3 7135’s would be needed to reach 500 lumens depending on the led you use. I prefer the Samsung 4000k LH351D 90 CRI. The drivers from Mtn have different UI’s you can chose from.
If the D25a is your chosen size light but lacks other features, then modding it should get you your holy grail. 
For most of us modders that’s the whole reason we do it, we can’t buy a light exactly like we want it. 
The L3 L10 clicky would be a potential mod host of you didn’t want to mod the D25C.
What kind of tools would I need to do something like that?
That looks like a neat little light.
Jetbeam Jet 1 Mk. 1.5 to 480lm. 14500/AA twisty. .76” at knurling on the head, .66” battery tube. Great build quality, and inexpensive. I bought several a year or two ago in the 10 dollar each range. I don’t normally like twistys, but this is an exception.
Its hard to say exactly without knowing how everything is in the light. A soldering iron of 50 watts or more, solder, flux, probably a file, maybe needle nose pliers, thermal paste and a frying pan and stove.
What would I need a frying pan and stove for?
Girls gotta eat ..
To reflow the emitter onto the mcpcb...and snacks
That’s it. That method works good and you should already have what you need for this step. Sometimes it’s easier to reflow a new emitter on to the existing board in the light.
The new Eagtac D25a Clicky MKII?
I’m pretty much in the same boat. I’d just like a ramping interface toykeeper style.
I pretty much want Toykeeper’s interface in ALL my lights
I modded a Sofirn SF14 with a E21A 4000k on 16mm mcpcb from Virence.com. Very easy to do as all you have to do is solder the two wires. Don’t have to reflow the emitters. It is around 500 lumens on 14500. The tint is the most beautiful 4000k tint in existence. It looks almost identical to the 219B 4000k 9080. Compared with my LH351D 4000k 90CRI, it makes the LH351D look like puke green.
Another potential candidate is the Enogear 14500 stainless steel with usb recharge. It is a tiny 14500 light. The tint is decent 4000k-4500k but not as good as the Enogear AA stainless version, which is superb.
I just recently got one of the new D25a MKII lights. I am really not impressed with the 14500 function of it. I bought Eagtac brand 14500s, and they are too long for the light. When used in the light, the three basic modes work fine, but to turn the head to use the turbo mode, I have to turn the head so tight that I nearly need pliers to loosen it. Maybe it would function better with a shorter 14500 battery, but it gets really hot after about a minute of use on high with the 14500, and moonlight mode turns more like medium mode, so I just put a AA in it. I got the neutral xp-l hi version, the beam is great and I’m very happy with the neutral tint, which is a warmer than my other “neutral” lights. I’m very happy with the light, just not the 14500 function of it.
I was not aware they made a MKII… interesting.
I’ve been looking into finding a “maker space” local to me with a CNC. I figure if I can get the shape of the tube right I can find a switch, TIR lens, and emiter to stuff in it. If I can’t find what I’m gonna try making it I guess.
Have any of you guys with Ultratac A1s gotten them apart? Mine has some clear epoxy looking stuff around the edges of the pill and it wont budge even with tools seated firmly in the slots.
Its a pretty solid little light, I just dont like the tint.
None of the lights that accept 14500 or AAs perform as well with a AA….
Here are a few that I own and personally can vouch for:
Lumintop Tool AA V2 accepts 14500 batteries and with them does 600 lumen
Utorch UT01 is a 14500 light or AA and does 800 lumen (programmable feature is very cool)
Klarus XT1A is 1000 lumen and uses AA or 14500
Thorfire TG06S can be found for around $12 on Amazon and does 500+ lumens
All of these high lumen lights running a 14500 with 750mAh cells are going to have limited run-time. My $0.02 is your better off with a smallish 18650 light.
I LOVE my Thrunite TC15!
I haven’t tried to take any of mine apart yet. I was waiting to see what Moderator007 comes up with on his mod. Shoot him a PM. Bet he can help you out. Surprised you don’t like the tint though. It is quite nice the way it is, though I guess that is where personal preference comes in.
Been awhile since I pulled it apart. The pill does take quite a bit of force to get it to turn loose. I used a pair of very fine long needle nose pliers.
Mine look like these but they’re from china. I have no idea where I got them. It will come out if you can get the right tool and enough torque to free the loctite. A little heat or freezing might help also.
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@toddcshoe, I did manage to get the mountain boost driver in the A1 with a xhp50.2. I made a pill on the lathe to make it fit. Unfortunately I did something to the driver during testing where the output current doesn’t try to stay constant. Waiting patiently for Richard to release a new batch to replace mine with. It’s floody with the xhp50.2 shoved in such a small reflector.
I ordered the D25A Clicky (not the Ti variant) with Nichia 4000K a couple days ago from the only remaining North American source: GoingGear.com. As of this writing, there are two left, $50 apiece, shipped. I don’t recall how its brightness compares withe the Ti Nichia.