The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

Woah, this question is from 8 months ago. :open_mouth:

The limiting factor is driver and pcb design. The boards and components can only handle a certain amount of current before burning up.

Aftermarket boost driver builders like Lexel and Richard at MTN E can squeeze about 50 watts from them. This is roughly 6A@6v and 3A@12v. So maybe 4,000 lumen from a 70.2 with about a 15A to 16A draw on a good 26650 high drain battery.

Most of the OEMS are not pushing the limits. They tend to put out 4A to 5A at the emitter and 8A to 10A on the battery which is why we see 3,000 to 3,400 lumen most of the time.

An interesting deviation from the norm is the new Nitecore TM10K which normally does 1,000 lumen continous, but has a 6 second burst mode of 10,000 lumen! This pulls about 35A from the Samsung 48G 21700 battery. I think they built a special circuit just for this one high output mode. The battery they use is rated at 10A continous and 30A for 10 seconds.

And then we have Nitecore pushing 35A out of a 10A rated Samsung 48G with a 3,6V-12V boost driver.

Stupidly impressive, but it’s going to destroy the non replaceable cell.

Alright so I got a new driver sitting here. Need to connect the e-switch. I don’t know which cable is which. Can someone explain it to a baby how to find the correct cables?

Edit: Ground should be near 0 resistance between one cable and ground on the board right?

Edit2: Got it.

After years of "maybe not always carefull" use my old Fenix L10 stoped working.

Using vise grip i was successful at removing the top part of the head wich let me access the led but the driver's pcb doesn't move at all.

Is it glued ? Is there way to remove the driver's pcb without destroying it all ?

It helps to say what driver and what light you have.

The e-switch is just a momentary switch that connects two wires. If there are no leds on the side switch circuit then polarity does not matter. Usually one wire goes to ground and the other wire will connect to a pin on the MCU that is looking for a ground signal.

Hey, I just watched a review of this unit by Louis Rossmann. It packs a punch when running at 24v.

about hunting trail camera’s…

i have one and they say : ” please note that the voltage of rechargeable AA batteries (1.2V) is insufficient to power this device”

my question is of this batteries good working with this ?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/10002551/1189303-powergenix-rechargeable-1-6v-2500mwh-aa-ni-zn

if this batteries good work ,i need special this charger ? they can’t load with xtar dragon charger ?

are there battery alternatifes for hunting camera ?

greets thx for answord

Is it reasonably safe to put a protected 18650 (Sanyo NCR18650GA or LG INR18650MJ1) in a cheap USB rechargeable flashlight like the Sofirn SC31 and leave it with the USB charger cable plugged in for extended periods of time (days or weeks)? Or will i actually have to unplug the charger cable when its done charging for safety.

It should be fine. The over-voltage protection circuitry in the battery will keep it from going over 4.2 volts plus the charger itself should stop at the same voltage. The only possible issue might be that after the charger stops working it has a small drain and it could slowly discharge the battery so that after a week your battery may be dead instead of fully charged and you have to charge it all over again. This is why it’s always good to unplug it after it’s done charging.

You can verify that the charger has stopped by using those little USB voltmeter / current meters that you can buy for $5 or $10.

Would an sst-40 go into a blf a6, and would you get any output gains. If so what other mods/ parts are required?
Is there another LED that’d improve output for the blf a6?

It will fit. You need a bigger centering ring for an xml2. I don’t know if it will have higher output. I want to say yes due to its lower forward voltage, but maybe someone else can say for sure.

Thanks I hope someone can help me with a how to on this or another LED more suitable or better for the A6

It already has a top performing led, so I don’t understand.

If there is improvement to be had, why not?
I’d like to look at drivers and more powerful leds too, something nuts…

There is no improvement, it’s already pretty much maxed out. The next step up would probably be to install an xhp70.2 and use a pair of 18350 batteries.

Oh yeah, if you don’t mind a TIR lens you can install a triple or quad led setup.

In some lights the LEDs don’t shut off instantly when I press the switch, but rather dim down until they’re completely dark which takes about 2-3 seconds. Why is this happening?

Probably just a design choice.
It might be better for your eyes to have the light dim down instead of instant off.

I don’t think it’s by design. You can also just cut the power and the LED does the same. Maybe capacitors discharging?

Olight does dimming by design!

And you can also add a capacitor by design against bumps etc.

Can someone please poit me in the direction of getting my Q8 flashed with new UI (NarsilM 1.2 or Anduril). I can’t find a good tutorial on the job.

Thnak you verry much!