Sofirn Q8 group buy (gb closed, but try PM to Sofirn for discount)

Would be cool if someone could take their q8 body and put on sofirn q8 head and measure both using the same body. Relative difference between two emitters ya know

The springs are not only better they are much stouter and longer than the BLF Q8’s so you are getting way better contact then the old BLF Q8, I tried bouncing the batteries off the driver trying to break the contact, my hand is still sore….my BLF Q8’s were so very easy to do before I modded them. I asked Sofirn to sell me a couple of the Sofirn Q8’s spring PCB’s for my stock BLF Q8’s I have in storage….they said they will take care of me. :+1: Got to Love that! :wink:

Wait, could someone actually picture and measure the height of the springs?

I have the impression they actually changed the spring material to phosphor bronze, or even BeCu :money_mouth_face:

Also, how stiff are they? If they’re a bit stiffer, then they should be phosphor bronze. If they are again a bit stiffer, they should be BeCu C17530. If they are VERY STIFF, which seems not to be the case at all, BeCu C17500. Although that would restrict compatibility quite a bit due to its low yield strength and high plastic deformation potential.

I also have the feeling they made the inner spring taller and thicker to make for a better dual spring array, so higher conductivity.

TLDR: Higher conductivity materials and/or better dual spring array.

Opened up the driver bay and they have what appears to be 18ga leads on it already. I swapped the FET for the Infineon FET from my BLF GT mini, to gain only 48.3 lumens. At any rate, I now see 6379.05 lumens at start with fresh charged 30Qs.

That is a difference of ’11 thousandths’ of a Volt klrman… Nothing at all to worry about in any way for parallel or series connections.

Wow! You guys and gal summed it quite clearly. Thank you. I meant to relay the experience so I cut out some details.

I have a Miboxer C4 and of the four (out of 6 button tops I have), they are all under 20 cycles with 36 mOhms for the 25R, ~70 for the 35E and ~100 for Nu 188.

I bought those 30q Ali fakes for a multi- batt light but not button top. Solder blobbing came to mind. Just didn't have time.

As far as series V'S parallel, I'm wary about series but I've been using a 3C light with two 18650s in parallel. New batteries, old pack pulls, etc. w/o problem but I monitor SOC regularly.

I prefer 30q but since I have two 35Es already, I'll probably just buy two more. I'll derive more current via brass screws and spring bypasses.

I read as much on best practices as I can and y'all's posts certainly are part of that curriculum. Thank you!

Maybe, maybe not. I say remarkable because I use the XP-L HI V3’s almost exclusively in most of my 3v builds, it is my favorite, go to Cree emitter, I especially like the V3-1A. I have also seen them vary quite a bit in output, Dale might have got some high end freaks, like in my D4S V3-1A it will do 6300+ on a 30T off the charger and 5800-5820 on a Golisi off the charger repeatably every time and that is with only a thin copper driver contact and copper braid bypassed tail spring, never touched/opened the head on the D4S. I think the new Noctigon Quad board has a lot to do with it also. I have had some V3’s pull over 7-7.25 amps (shocked the hell out of me) for 1780-1800lms naturally at turn on. And I have yet to burn one out, like some have claimed?

If you flash it, remember to grab the latest version first. :slight_smile:

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/

Well thank you TK, I will flash it next. :smiley:

It now makes 8659.5 lumens. :slight_smile: a gain of 2280.45 lumens over the last iteration and 2884.2 lumens more than when it came out of the box a few hours ago. Sorry it took me so long, had to eat lunch and take care of some other bidness.

Ok WUT?

Did you get that kind of brightness out of secret extreme high bin XPL-HIs or another type of LED?

I thought it was 11/100th of a volt? I was just curious as to what the threshold would be just for my own info.

You know me Blue, couldn’t leave power in the kit… I swapped in XP-L2’s. (2 5000K and 2 5700K for a mixed tint)

Can I have your V3’s :smiley:

I think I'd like to bring you lunch and a light for modding!

Ok TK, flashed with the 2018-09-07 variant, no switch light. What have I forgotten?

Sure Kawi, as you’re aware they only ran less than a minute while I tested the few stages of build.

PM me your addy, was there anything else I was supposed to be sending that I’ve forgotten? Some Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI or something? Got a couple of Oslon Black Flats you can play with too if you want…

I mean if Kawi wants to trade 4 of these magic HI’s for one of his clean 70.2 de-domes i’m sure he could get a bunch :smiley:

Not sure. I just tried it on mine to be sure, and it works. You grabbed the Q8 version, right? Avrdude should report 7996 bytes flashed.

Yep, anduril.2018-09-07.BLF_Q8.hex

Edit: Just cracked it back open and checked, no wires pinched and all wires still solidly soldered. No side switch light. Not that it really matters, I’d turn it off if it was on, but it’s odd that it quit working.

Mine came this morning. Cleaned the contacts, tightened screws in head and cap and did the ceiling bounce test.

Thanks for the deal Sofirn, I really like this light.