I broke my wrench as well! Lol. The fact that I bought it for 3$ from china didn’t help either. But mine broke just as I cracked the head open. So 3$ well spent I guess. Waiting for the conversion kit now.
Nice! My wrenches were brand new Craftsman as well, Amazon, they’re very nice. I foresee oil changes being easier lol
I noticed when I leave it in turbo mode for a few minutes, I hear expansion ding sounds coming from the head. Anyone else notice it?
Mine will never touch oil. I learned the hard way, I keep mine dry and sealed in a ziplock bag, lest they dry out and become brittle and slippery, and not very useful. My oil filter wrench has rotating iron fingers, that the harder you turn the harder they squeeze the filter.
4 bucks at walmart( hyper tough brand) works great
Yeah, this is very common.
I’m ok with it as long as it’s normal. Thanks Texas!
With the change in the carrier design would it be a bad idea to use one new design and one old design in a light at the same time? Not that I would ever want to but how worried do I need to be in case they ever got mixed up or if one broke and replaced with the other type?
I get the same thing with my MF02 and MF02S as well
anyone get confirmation of order or tracking#?
purchased my conversion kit on 9/13/18 but have not heard anything back.
Thanks for help beforehand.
Mixing and matching carriers is fine. The external dimensions, such as overall length and diameter, are exactly the same. It’s only the distance where the battery sits that has changed.
That sounds great JasonWW, thank you.
My order of these tips came in today. I’m quite disappointed. They have the same sloppy fit as my cheap tips. They also use a liner. I’ll see if the liner slides out tomorrow.
Can you guys that have snug fitting Hakko tips look to see if Hakko uses a liner in them?
So far these look like junk. No snug fit = no good heat transfer. I’ll be returning these.
I think I’ll take my iron down to a Frys Electronics store and look at their Hakko tips next week when I have a day off. They are not too expensive at $6-$7 each, but the drive is pretty far.
My OEM Hakko tips have an inserts as well, but they fit with minimal play. Maybe yours are fakes?
I don’t know, but it bothers me. I may replace my entire iron.
Yep… looks like a sleeve/liner in all of mine. Your packaging looks a bit different though…
There is a U.S. patent number on mine, and the warning is in English?
I’m still waiting for mine as well. Tracking still says “Wait for Shipping” I’d imagine they will ship soon. Hopefully next week.
The NW lights are being packed this week, I got a picture of that effort yesterday. I assume that the conversion kits are also being worked on but I know they are in a time crunch before China shuts down next week for a holiday. We will see what all makes it out before that happens.
Strange indeed, his might indeed be fakes.
Although I would recommend trying at least one of them out first. While the fitment is a big part of it, I wrapped my old china tips with copper foil to give them a snug fit and while the solder station did read that the temperature increased faster it only soldered slightly better. The insides of the tip are simply not very good.
Even with a looser fit with my hakko tip compared to the foil wrapped china tip, the Hakko tip is night and day better.
I wish I still had the rappers for mine so I can compare them with yours. I purchased extra tips from Home Depot. They all get up to temp. BTW, I have a fake Hakko FG100 and 191 temperature sensor. They both are within a couple of degrees of each other.
I found wrappers just like mine, so that is no issue.
The reason cheap tips will never heat up well is because copper foil will only tighten the gap between the heater and sleeve. The problem is the air gap between the inner sleeve and the tip. I did a video on it here.
Searching online I found that Hakko heating elements should be 4.86-4.88 in diameter. I also read that they should not have a snug fit so as to allow for expansion. I don’t know if that is true or not.
I decided to go ahead and try one of the tips on the very light that the cheap tip could not melt. The big 30mm copper dtp xhp70.2 mcpcb in the ODF30. Maxed at 480°C the cheap tip (largest size) just could not melt it. It heated the head instead.
With this new Amazon Hakko tip I set the temperature to 450°C and it had no problems liquefying it (using a medium sized tip on top of all that). I was able to wick away all the original solder and put some fresh lead-free in and then reassemble the light. I was also able to do some spring bypasses at either 330° or 360°C (I forget). So even though the fit between the tip and the element is not snug, it seems to be working a whole lot better than those cheap tips I had.
Next time I have it out I’ll switch to the biggest tip and do some solder blobs on my 26650 cells and see how it does. The old tips took a good 5 seconds to melt the blob, when it should be more like 2 seconds.
So for now, I’m satisfied. :+1: