6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

I was going to say you could buy the factory driver for like 10 bucks that’s ready to go, but I’m not sure if Lexel is making some kind of special linear driver.

Any of Lexels aftermarket drivers do require swapping the brass ring over.

16x AMC driver is up to 5.6A regulated, above that the FET comed into play

Lexel, please work your magic when you have time.

C8F 21700 dimensions:

driver cavity = 21.26mm

retaining ring ID = 15.96mm

@zeroflow hey I’ve been trying to get these files to flash and I’m pulling my hair out. I’ve tried researching for awhile now with no success. Everything seems like a bad connection to my programmer, but I used this same config earlier today to flash my buddies D4. Of the two Lexel drivers I got, neither would flash, and I kept getting the error
“programm enable: target doesn’t answer. 1.
Initializelation failed, rc=1.”

So I did some googling and tried using -B 32 to lower the clock speed. No avail. I cleaned the contacts, I reseted connections, I changed from 5v to 3.3v, I did everything… Eventually I used the -F command to force it to write the hex. Which it did, and then failed to verify, and the driver ceased to function when tested in the light with battery.
I thought it was the hex, so I flashed a known-good D4 hex to it, same results, flash but fail to verify.

I got the second driver out, which I had not soldered to yet, and it gave the same exact initial error. I did not use the -F command on it. I went back and forth between the two drivers, I could not get either to work with any combination of settings. Then, suddenly, the second driver flashed the h03.hex with the stock settings for avrdude,I have no idea why. It verified fine. I have not checked to see if it is functional in a light.

The first one still fails to flash. Now it is saying the device signature is wrong. And indeed, the signature does change every time. This leads me to think it’s a connection problem, but I’ve flashed a half dozen lights with this already with zero issues.

The only other thing I can think, is that I accidentally bridged the negative led terminal by the FET with the negative ring around the PCB. And when I put the light together the light came on full brightness and it took me a few seconds to figure it out. Could this have damaged the MCU? I cleared the bridge, and the stock loaded Narsilm ran fine, ramping and turbo and everything else, so it seemed to me that the MCU was fine. Could something else have burned? I can try soldering on a new MCU, but I will wait for guidance.

Also, if it’s a damaged MCU, then why did the untouched driver also fail to flash at first?? Makes no sense.

Sorry this is so long, I’ve tried helping myself here but I’m getting over my head. Any suggestions guys?

Edit: I’m using the hex files you sent me.

Alright so the MCU that managed to flash… works perfectly in the light.

So I tried flashing the bad one again and got the same results. So I checked my wiring, pulled apart my taped joint where the solder joints are, it’s all fine. Then I got the idea, if the MCU is bad, then I’ll flash the new one before soldering it in. I get the same error when trying to flash the bare chip. And then I realized I get the same error with nothing attached at all. So something is definitely screwy. I think it’s the flasher I have, good thing I bought two, when I get home on Tuesday I will try the backup flasher.

Any other ideas beyond that?

My Buck drivers have a capacitor on the LVP voltage divider to avoid problems with ripple current, you have to look at it ist 0603 C3 marked
one side has a solder bridge to a pad, remove this bridge with solder wick to flash it

As I get often questions like is it already shipped ect. I point again on Post 2 with the Excel table with the Order information
Also its best to check if there is no error in your order I try my best but with that many people and conversations there are always some errors possible

follow here the progress of your order and check if the order contains all you need

Tracking website

I am not sure how do I access the excel spreadsheet. Post #2 has a screenshot of the spreadsheet which is obviously a truncated part of the entire thing.

I think that’s the point, or else everyone’s full address and other information would be on the open internet

It’s a .png file. An image.

yes of course full address should be hidden

I had it one time shipping stuff to the wrong address, so better check it there

For future reference of anyone reading this and having the same problem as me: I don’t know why I couldn’t flash the bare MCUs when I tried the first time, but I can now. The problem was definitely just a dead MCU on that driver. I’m guessing I killed it when I bridged LED negative to ground. Use your multimeters folks. Everything is fine and well and running smoothly with my lights, sorry for clogging up this thread haha.

I had also a few MCUs killed while using the SOIC clip, bad connection while flashing and it went dead

Received my two LX1 drivers yesterday :smiley:
Finally my 2D Maglite can shine again !
Now, what to do with the second one ?:-p

Hello again. I have a question. I paired one of your drivers I built with the stock emitter from the H03, and separately, with a 219C, both work fine. But when I pair it with an LH351D, it also works fine, but it glows ever so faintly when it should be off. It doesn’t matter if it’s in lockout mode or just off, when the battery is connected, it glows extremely faintly. When the battery is disconnected, the light continues to glow for a couple seconds before going out.

I’ve isolated the issue to the driver itself, it happens on both ones I built. I haven’t been able to test the ones you built, they are in lights that I gave to friends out of town.

I took the drivers out of the light, disconnected all wires but the LED wires. I’ve tried it with several different LEDs of different types, 219C, XML2, and the LH351D.

The light is so faint, I’m sure the standby time is still extremely long, but I can’t imagine this is normal? What could be wrong that’s causing this? What is special about the LH351D that the other emitters aren’t glowing?

As always thanks for all the help.

Ah, good to hear that I'm not the only one.

I messaged Lexel about that and he gave me the advice of cleaning the driver. Sadly that didn't work.

What's pretty clear is, that there is some leakage current somewhere in the path. And considering how the LED is connected, it needs to be somewhere in the negative path as the positive is directly connected.

Furthermore, I tried running the driver outside the host with the LED still connected to rule out any leakage current through the MCPCB or the host itself.

In that case, the LED still has a dim glow, so I would rule out the MCPCB and Host.

So now, on the driver, the following things are connected to LED-:

  • MOSFET
  • Bank of 7135 chips on the bottom
  • Single 7135 chip on the top
  • (The driver PCB itself)

The MOSFET should be a BSC009NE2LS5I which has a diagram for drain-source leakage current in it.

In the diagram, I see that a Vds between 3..4V at room temperature would yield around 30µA of current (If I'm not mistaken)

That's not much, but maybe that's enough for the LED to light up.

Maybe if I have too much time, I will desolder the FET and see if the AMC7135s also have a leakage current.

Another option would be someone with a low value current source who could test at which level the LH351D start a dim glow.

Oh good, same haha, I worried I screwed something up (which I suppose could still be).

I don't think it's so bad aesthetically. I almost like it, if it's not draining my battery more than any other emitter would. More on that below.

And functionally not terrible, especially if the emitter is just capable of turning on at extremely low currents, right? Because that would mean it's not using more current than a different emitter would be, it just so happens to be lighting up with that current. I suppose that would need to be tested.

Anywho, to see if it's the fet or the AMCs, couldn't we just desolder the components off of each channel, or even the lower AMC bank one at a time and see if that changes things? Not the most scientific, but just maybe haha.

PM sent on a couple drivers.

Hey Lexel, check your messages. I need quote on a couple drivers.
Do you take paypal?

He does use PayPal.