Experience. This is not my first rodeo. 
That’s a good use. Thanks for the reply.
Nope, didn’t forget….
…… just wanted to see who was paying attention. You were….
Anyway… that’s my story & I’m sticking to it. . . 
We compromise, it’s true, whether due to available components or time constraints, cost of production or just the Mrs. limiting funds, we all compromise. The game is in finding the compromises that work.
The two piece head may well do the job Sofirn is asking of this light as they have set it up. Perhaps a one piece construction would serve us better for modding to another level, but still, there are benefits that have been worked into this that have their own merit so in the end, when it’s all said and done, the Pro’s and Con’s get weighed and the monies get attributed to the winner….
I believe there was a S70 owner in this thread who indicated that the threads are indeed a noticeable barrier for heat.
We will have to measure the SP70 and see how it performs.
Repost of pictures for page 32:
Okay, I’ve heard back from Tracy. They are going to do ideas #7 and #8. They are not able to do or maybe don’t want to do #9 and #10. Those two were a bit of a long shot anyway.
Here are their latest images.
They don’t show the grooves going all the way around the switch area, but Tracy assured me they do. I’ve added it to the above image.
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I think it’s chemical, or maybe both chemical and mechanical.
Maybe t depends on the thermal grease too.
I use white Fujik like stuff.
Every time i take a LED board off from a aluminium pill or shelf it’s grey from suspended aluminium particles.
Even worse of course when it’s on the threads.
But even silicone grease to lube the threads turns into grey gunk when the threads are not anodized.
Oils do the same.
I use ‘soft’ candle wax (not the hard crumbly type) to lube bare aluminium threads.
I don’t think it’s necessary. the surface area of where the threads touch i think is enough for good heat transfer.
Much more surface area on the head threads than a pill.
Also, i suspect it’s also cheaper for the manufacturer to use a pill-less design.
I actually wonder if it has real life thermal benefits.
That would be theoretically true Jerommel if IF the threads were a nice fit. But most of these lights have a standard thread design that is very loose and sloppy, in which case only the torque side of the V shape is actually making contact and then only a small portion of that. So there typically isn’t as much surface contact as one might presume.
Yeah, of course the threads only touch ‘on the torque side’, but it’s touching quite firmly.
Added to that is the firm contact between the parts where they touch.
I could be wrong, but i have never seen IR images where this is clearly a bottle neck in the heat transfer.
So you could fill up all space with nasty gunk, but i doubt if it will make a significant difference.
The real bottle neck in the thermal path is still the LED itself…
As an aside, i wonder if the thermal grease would improve when it’s full of desolved Aluminium particles…
The dissolved aluminum particles wouldn’t be present, that only comes from the constant changing of cells. Who splits the 2 parts of the head apart all the time?
PLUS, the threads are anodized, both sides, and anodized to anodized is horrid for thermal transfer. One more deficit in the name of a split head…
The thermal imagery I’ve seen that showed from the turn-on point clearly indicated the spread of heat below the LED closely resembles the spread of light above it. Until it’s blocked, then it starts backing up when it has to turn corners and meets small conducting highways. The driver bay is typically in the worst possible spot, a big hollow right where the majority of heat would otherwise be traveling. At any rate, once the heat starts pushing out to the sides then the mass areas above the emitter shelf come into play. Get’s complicated of course, but if you’re really pushing some heat, say from 3 or 4 70.2’s, then passive cooling just doesn’t really get it done regardless.
just found this thread, how far is it from final product?
Unknown, as far as has been discussed on this thread anyway.
They are at the protoype building stage so most big decisions have been worked out. Now it is about figuring out all the fine details. I’m not wanting to rush them as I’d rather have a really nice product with no issues.
I hope it is released this year as Sofirn seems to work pretty fast, but there is no guarantee.
That 2 part head looks like it would be good for fine tuning focus, when needed. I agree with DBC about the thermal properties of ano to ano, but the large surface area at that point should compensate to a good degree. I don't know the maths to prove that. So maybe I'm wrong.
You would not want to mess with that junction. It would be far better to use the bezel.
thanks for the info.
Here is an update.
A prototype was made.
They did not like the beam from an SMO reflector so they are going to use an OP reflector. They measured the throw at 550 meters (I believe using their own 26650 batteries).
They can offer the light in 2 ways. By itself or in a combo with Sofirn 26650 batteries and charger.
There is a small issue in that the Sofirn 26650 battery is not producing high amps like a Liitokala or similar would. Using their 26650 battery, they are measuring 5,000 lumen.
They measured 5,800LM-5,900LM using Sanyo 3500mAh 18650 batteries.
They considered getting better 26650 batteries from another company, but that creates too many other problems.
My guess is they will go with their own 26650, especially since it has a raised top and makes contact in series. Their 4000mah 21700 is a really strong battery, but I don’t think the top is raised enough to make contact.
Should they bother offering a combo? What do you think?
Thanks for the update!!
The light looks decent.
Sigh no SMO reflector whole point of this light :rage: .
Will the SMO be offered on the side?
As for the batteries no point in the package for us at least.