I did. Nopers…
Oh well, that sucks. If you are patient, sales will probably crop up. My first Q8 was $46.
I am loving this Sofirn Q8!! I like the tint even better than the BLF Q8.
The fit & finish are about as close to perfect as it can be.
Thanks Sofirn…. Great job!!
Bugger! I paid full price for my BLF Q8 off Amazon AU, AUD$78 when there was discount available to make it AUD$40 
First, it was for the Sofirn Q8 and secondly it was $40 US. The Australian conversion rate would make the price higher than $40 maybe like $56AUD.
$40 AUD is like $29 USD and they have never been that cheap.
I think there are coupons for the BLF Q8 for $46 USD, but not any for the Sofirn Q8 right now. Maybe soon though it will be available with a coupon.
I know it was the Sofirn, I was sympathizing with the experience of paying more when less had been possible.
Yes AUD$40 is like USD$29 and it was that cheap. It was a mistake but orders were filled https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/392606
Is there a decent diffuser available for the Q8?
Yesterday I received my Q8. I love that light and only complain I have is that I can’t unscrew steel bezel and tail cap. While I don’t care about the tail cap, I want to change the LEDs at some point.
Luckily this didn’t stopped me from flashing Anduril firmware on it. This is my first light with Anduril and I really like it. Everything seems to work fine, even switch light. Except battery indicator which isn’t accurate. When I put batteries which currently provide 3.8V and check battery voltage from Q8, the light blinks 4 times for 4.0 volts. Did I messed something when flashed it?
I used ToyKeeper’s hex from 09/30.
I just checked mine and it isnt glued. Just use the bottom of a mouse pad/shoe/carpet. Twist and press at the same time and it will come off easily.
Mine is stock. Battery meter seems to read slightly high also.
Thanks for the reply, I mange to unscrew the bezel :). But wasn’t easy for sure, Maybe I should grease the threads.
Modded my second Q8 again, this time with an emitter swap using LED4Power’s dual footprint boards. With sliced SST-40’s on it and the openings in the reflector reamed out so the reflector sits down onto the board, it makes 8349 lumens on the 30Q’s. The lowest level is 0.1035 lumens. Forward Voltage is low enough that Candlelight in Anduril isn’t smooth all the way down at the base level, but works fine with a tiny bump up.
Those SST-40’s look cool in there!
This iteration of my favorite light has some serious down range punch.
Not a cool white fan usually, I like this one.
The sliced SST-40’s make 8763 lumens with Samsung 25S cells in the Q8. 
Edit: slicing them warms them slightly but they’re still on the cool white side. Lux is 116.75Kcd for 683.37M throw. Not bad at all for a nearly 9,000 lumen soup can light! 
My stock Q8 reads .1v lower than actual voltage.
It’s not super accurate, but it should be good enough to tell you your batteries condition.
For instance the light may flash 4.0 when the battery is in a range of 3.98 to 4.08 or maybe 3.93 to 4.03. It tries to be close, but it can’t be perfect.
If it blinks 4.4 on freshly charged batteries then you have to mentally remember it’s .2 high.
If your flashing your own UI, maybe ToyKeeper can suggest an edit in the code to make your light be closer to accurate.
TK does indeed have a set that can be flashed into the MCU and measurements taken with different voltages of cells, this will flash out the code you need to put in the program to make your specific light more accurate. I don’t use it, She uses it for every build.
I didn’t read the whole thread, but shouldn’t Sofirn use NarsilM v1.2 in the Sofirn Q8?