The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

Olight does dimming by design!

And you can also add a capacitor by design against bumps etc.

Can someone please poit me in the direction of getting my Q8 flashed with new UI (NarsilM 1.2 or Anduril). I can’t find a good tutorial on the job.

Thnak you verry much!

Can you remove the driver to mail it to someone?

If so, that will save a lot of money for shipping.

You can try contacting Lexel who is in Germany about reflashing your driver.

You could send the head, but I’m sure it will raise shipping costs.

Thank you for the answer.
I know about Lexel, I already have one made by him.
I would like to try it myself, but I don’t know exactly how and what gear I need and how to go about doing it…

This stuff is too complicated for myself, but I kinda want to learn so I’ve been keeping track of things.

Try this link for parts.

Here are some videos.

Damn JasonWW, when people do give aways they should just stop and give they’re stuff to you instead :laughing:)
Thank you sir, I will look in to it.

JasonWW already answered this and said “… The only possible issue might be that after the charger stops working it has a small drain and it could slowly discharge the battery so that after a week your battery may be dead instead of fully charged and you have to charge it all over again. …”. As far as I'm versed this should not happen because if the battery voltage drops a certain (usually small) amount while the flashlight is still plugged the charging should resume and top out the cell. You could even test this by switching the torch on for a short time while plugged, of course if it works. Best advice try and check it for yourself, no SC31 to test around here. :-)

Cheers ^:)

If you don’t mind me asking, what is this? I’m genuinely curious, is it a frankenstein (’s monster) of sorts?

Here you go.

So your memory works as normal again?

I just added a 680 ohm resistor and measure 677 ohms from spring to body, but I still have next mode memory for some reason. ???


.

^ the other factor involved is the resistors inline with the leds in the tail, if they are too low, the influence on the driver is higher. I use at least a few kOhm. What are your values?

I happened to have bought 2 of these tail light kits from Gearbest (two blue leds), so I checked the uninstalled switch.

It looks like 330 ohm? That doesn’t seem right. 33 with 1 zero?

Yes, 2x 330 Ohm, 165 Ohm resultant resistance and that is very low, the leds are probably really bright?

I checked my X2R build and it has 3x 33 kOhm parallel, so 10 kOhm resultant resistance. My tail leds are green and still very bright. You may try a bit lower, say 10kOhm each, 5 kOhm resultant resistance.

I need some help with re-wiring a new driver to a side switch in a MF04.

Driver removed. Do I replace the 30 AWG wires with something bigger ?

Here is the original driver. It is marked for color wires.

Here is the new Driver.

Where do the side switch wires go ? I do not know.

I see no need to replace any wires.

Do you have a DMM or some type of meter? I would find out what the original wires did.

The black is ground so I guess it’s a common ground design. So black wire to the G.

Confirm the white is for the switch. If so, it should go to the S.

The new driver only has output for one switch led so you need to choose which color led you want to connect to the new driver.

Maybe red wire is for red led and green wire for green led? What kind of switch lights are on the MF04? Whichever LED you choose you can attach that to the L which should be the MCU controlled LED output or you could attach it to the LS which should be a steady output.

Thanks ” JasonWW ” :beer:
It has a Breathing Green side switch light and it turns red after batteries get low.

It has been modded for the MF04 and the 2 wires are for the water pump.

I could hook it up and check it with a dmm, but I don’t want to risk damaging it.
Guess I may need to PM Lexel for help. Just hoping this was standard flashlight lingo that us newbies don’t know.

Damaging it? You must not have understood me. Just check the switch wires for continuity. Put one probe on the black wire and one on the white wire and see if pressing the switch makes contact.

All these companies don’t have any wiring standard for switches. Some use a a common negative and some use a common positive. The switch itself is not polarity sensitive, but the LEDs are. You might also check that the red wire connects to the red LED and the green wire goes to the green LED. It’s definitely possible that the green wire controls the red LED and the red wire controls the green LED. I assume the two colors are on opposite sides of the switch. If you accidentally hook up the wrong color LED it’s fairly easy to go back in and switch it for the other wire.

The best thing to do is get a piece of paper or a notebook and write down the switch wires and what they go to and then draw a diagram so that you understand where everything goes and what it does.

Lexels connectors are fairly well known.
The S would be switch positive,
the G would be ground,
the L is swich led positive controlled by the MCU
and LS is switch LED positive constant on.

I have a solarforce L2T host sitting around collecting dust. Even if i get a dropin, it wont fet used much but at least it would be a back up or loaner. What is a good budget/value dropin module?

Thank You for the help “JasonWW”. I’m just a newbie here with the wiring.

I see people mentioning flipping a light; is that the same as flipping a house? Or is it some kind of mod?
House flipping is when a real estate investor buys houses and then sells them for a profit. In order for a house to be considered a flip, it must be bought with the intention of quickly reselling. The time between the purchase and the sale often ranges from a couple months up to a year. :question: