I built a C8F triple with a FET+1 driver from Mountain Electronics. I have to put it on 3 as well otherwise it flickers. This is with different driver and LEDs (LH351D) and 1S battery. Probably the 7135 chip cant go lower.
Last I checked, Mtn uses the 380mA chips with a sailboat on them, and they don’t perform well at all at low levels. Acting weird at level 1 is probably normal for those.
Fireflies uses the 350mA raptor claw chips though, which are generally very good at low levels.
I’m guessing you tried a strap wrench already?
This is not the answer you want, but if they used Loctite, it breaks down somewhere between 150° C (max rated service temperature) and 250° C (temp they recommend for removal).
I use a heat gun from time to time to remove Loctited bolts, but bolts don’t have electronic components or solder, which melts somewhere around 180° C.
I don’t know if it weakens somewhat below that temperature. Heating the light might work, or it might kill it before you actually break down the adhesive.
For those who don’t already own the light, I noticed yesterday the website does now have the option to select an unglued bezel, warrantied only against defects on arrival.
Unless money is really tight I would just sell the glued one and order a new one if you absolutely must access the bezel. It’s not worth the risk of melting the optic and other damage when you can order it unglued from the factory.
A strap wrench won’t work on the driver retaining ring.
That part probably doesn’t need glue at all. Usually the point of a retaining ring is to avoid the need for glue.
It was very difficult to open. The thread has been damaged and is no longer correct. It helped me to drill the holes deeper. As far as possible no pressure should be exerted from above to avoid damaging the thread.I used needle nose pliers, spanner and vise.
Exactly!
One problem are the conical holes
in the retaining ring which I cannot grip well with a mounting tool. Therefore I’m not able to apply much force.
This is my most expensive stock light up to now and I don’t like to damage it. If Fireflies doesn’t help I finally will drill additional holes for better grip and use the heatgun but I’m still hoping for their response. Fireflies should know a method for disassembling defective lights - or do they put them in the wastebasket?
Thanks! Bad news though. I consider this a bad design, the conical holes require pressure from above!
What do you think, Fireflies?
A hot air gun might have helped. I was not sure if the heat destroyed anything.
D’oh! I should have read more carefully. I was thinking of the bezel.
We have a few stock ROT66 with minor machining flaws or scratches available, those lights perform perfectly in function. If anyone have interested, please send me private message or email to ff-light@hotmail.com
Special low price!!
email sent
I noticed on Facebook the other day the ROT66 is now “officially” shipping with Anduril, and the Fireflies site reflects that. Since the firmware status has been up in the air for a little while, can we can a definite confirmation all models (including XP-L) now have Anduril?
I was happy to see there is now a “no glue” ordering option. Does that apply to the driver as well?
I just got mine a few days ago. How do I check?
Check what?
Firmware, Anduril or narsilm.
Has anyone with an order number earlier than #243 received Anduril or a no-glue light? (I ordered a 219b, and asked for those options in the comments before they became standard)
Edit: I got a response; mine will have anduril but be glued. So if anyone wants to know whether theirs will be whatever, compare the order number.
Here is Anduril.
Just try something that is different from NarsilM. If click click hold goes to a blinky mode, it’s Anduril. If 6 fast clicks go to muggle mode, it’s Anduril. Try 3 fast clicks to go to battery check, then 2 fast clicks should be “sunset”. If so it’s Anduril. If it blinks 1.2 or 1.3, then it’s NarsilM. Try cycling through the blinky modes. NarsilM us strobe, alternating strobe, bike light, 2 second beacon then 8 second beacon.
Thanks for the info. So these two versions of Anduril are both configured as 3-channel (7135x1, 7135x6 or 13, FET), right? Then may I know the exact level of 7135x1 100% on the two versions? I suppose that level should be also PWM-free and can be pretty useful in some situations…
It will be even better if you are able to upload the ROT66 specific header files to your firmware trunk so I can figure it out myself 
I uploaded that a while ago, but it’s in the fsm branch, not yet merged into trunk.