What did you mod today?

raccoon, nice job on modding the thread to a 6k one! :wink:

As you might remember there were several members reporting the problem with the half lit Luxeon V in the beginning of this year, including me. I haven’t even reflowed this LEDs by myself, I bought them already reflowed to MCPCB. Meanwhile I believe they are either all of bad quality or quality is not constant during batches. I don’t consider buying more of this LEDs.

Perhaps you could try LH351Ds?

They don’t have as low of a forward voltage of course, but they are still very good.

That is one of the options indeed, but still tinkering…

Where could I buy LH351D in good price to ship central europe free or very reasonably shipping cost?
I asked Sofirn if they want to make 4040 and 5050 MCPCB for C8F sold separately or option at buying host.

If you want 4000K 90CRI: led4power.com - got mine there

If you want 5k 90CRI you can get some DOG FARTS from here:

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sphwhtl3da0gf4rts6/samsung-electronics

Also, less desirable but tons of selection:

Split a 50 euro order (free shipping minimum) with someone and choose multiple CCT’s from a large digikey selection. They have 18 different bin/color choices (check datasheet for models cause not all are categorized properly):

I feel your pain djozz. Sometimes nothing goes right, other days unbelievably fluid.

CRX says it true, just the way it is…

Forget who said it but it’s SO true… sometimes when you’re on the cutting edge you just gotta bleed a little.

Copper Tube Light III.

Installed one of Lexel’s D4S aux boards. I went with pink/purple and green for the main aux leds and then there are 3 red LEDs in the middle that indicate low voltage and finally off entirely for complete LVP.

A bit trickier than I expected but still managed to get it done without too much trouble.



Some observations:

  • All 4 wires have to be pulled through the middle hole then soldered from the top through the adjacent holes
  • I dont think it’s possible to sit 100% flat where the LED wires solder to MCPCB, just too little room and your solder blob will slightly raise the middle. I still screwed it down pretty tight on all 4 ends but the board is flexing slightly on the outsides
  • I guess because of the potentiometers only the “high” and beacon aux settings work, then you just adjust it using the 3 pots



Wow, Carnival time! :smiley:

Very nice mod contactcr. :heart_eyes:

And just for Dale I think changing from red to white aux board probably gained like 25 lumens easy.

Lol, thanks for that contactcr, appreciate it. Back to the Highway Supplies Dept for that reflective white paint…

- yes the first version had not ideal holes for the main LED boards pads, fixed this on later boards which will be available soon, simply had no D4S to measure the right distance

- low mode can not work as its PWMed

- LVP and low battery warning with 3 red LEDs when outer 16 are shut off

  • driver can not be flashed when Aux board soldered as its a cap on a programming pin for the LDO

Looks nice, like the purple :+1:

How many lumens these DOG FARTS capable to squeeze out in direct drive? I want to replace Nichia leds in a ROT66 for more output but maintain good CRI.
If I like them maybe use them in other multi emitter lights as well.

Took step one for a mod, inspired by the High CRI host discussion.

  • Emisar D4 with 10623 optics
    • Status: Ordered from Hank (full flashlight, no option to buy just the host)
  • Quad Nichia Optisolis 5000k
    • Ordered from Clemence
  • Custom 5+2+1+M eSwitch driver
    • Thanks to:
      • Del and Texas Ace for their 7135+Fet driver
      • Lexel for the BLF programming key
    • Components are ready
    • PCB is ordered
    • Firmware TBD
      • Based on Anduril
      • 5+2+1 part is easy (3 CH driver like the FW3A)
      • +M will be an even lower moon mode (~1mA) instead of just pulsing the single 7135 at 1/255 PWM

cool mod, zeroflow! Looking forward to the progress.