[Optisolis/E17A/E21A] Jetbeam Jet-µ

Me too, Optisolis seems to work best for general lighting not flashlight enabled yet. I’m not going to make this FL completely from scratch, that would requires a huge committed funding which I don’t want to do ATM. I’m going a custom order route just like my previous Armytek built.

- Clemence

E21a :slight_smile:

Voted E21A

Voted E21. For a different option.

Yes, I prefer too a narrow beam, better with a diffused lens; the old Fenix E05 27 lumens has a perfect beam of light, narrow with smooth transition

great options!
I like mode memory, it makes for a very versatile EDC… set to moon for nightstand duty, set for medium for daytime…

I hope the pocket clip works on a hat (bezel up option), that is a Very useful feature for hands free, although even without a clip, I sometimes just put a light under my hat, no clip required…

Considering how little energy is in a AAA cell, is there any chance of getting a lower medium mode?

Usually my most-used level on any light is about 5 to 10 lm, so on something like this I’d probably do the modes a little differently if possible. Like maybe 0.2 lm, 8 lm, 36 lm, 100 lm. Not sure if that can be done here, but I think it would be nice that way.

What does this mean? “Red/Green/Blue/Amber” It isn’t explained in the first or second posts.

I’m for a E21A as well, but the driver would probably be changed to a single-mode one by me

I was about to ask helps from any of you driver programmers there. And your name came to my to-ask list. This one should be easy to reprogram. The plan also includes an optional dongle for reprogramming (much later). This is still beyond my expertise ATM but I’m more than willing to learn. It uses PIC MCU instead of AVR.

MCPCB for E21A can work with E17A as well. And this broadens the choice to not only warm or cool white only, but also Red-Green-Blue-Amber E17A. E17A shares the same voltage characteristic with E21A, including their single color variants. Nichia use phosphors converted colored LED. Same forward voltage for all E17A and E21A family.

- Clemence

Phosphor converted single wavelength colors? What’s the advantage of that, besides having the same Vf across the board? I’d think that would be an inefficient way to produce those colors.

I voted E17A/21A If its a lower powered aaa I want throw. And I don’t even know what they are. I am just going off djozz post.

I’ve never actually attempted to use a PIC MCU. Tterev3 published some example code for the PIC10F322 though.

For now, the next MCUs I’m looking at are AVR models with more than 8 pins. But after I get the hardware abstraction layer written for those, maybe it’d also be feasible to add back ends for PIC models.

This obviously.

I voted for the E21A because I have tunnel vision, so a tight beam is normally more useful to me. What’s the tightest optic for this LED? 5° or 10° would be nice :slight_smile:

What will “slow beacon” correspond to? I like 0.5Hz to 1Hz, at 50% duty cycle. Tunnel vision again - it’s very easy for me to miss short, infrequent flashes. A brief flash once every 5 seconds - call it 0.2Hz at 5% duty cycle - would be useless to me, for example.

While I would be very happy to see an 5000K Optisolis and a 3500K Optisolis variant, beam versatility as a selling point made me chose E21A/E17A. I’d settle for a fine beaded optics with 15-20° beam diameter.

Phosphor converted color LEDs are also seem to be a good feature for E17A in my understanding.

For white LEDs, I’d choose 3000 or 3500K CCT for warm white option, and 4500K CCT for neutral white.

I think, output levels would be best like this: 0.5 lm - 4 lm - 25 lm - 100 lm.

I don’t know your possibilities, but if you could arrange a single AA EDC as well, I think, that would be also very good. (Single AA could be a better match with a single E21A emitter in term of max. recommended power level)

I would buy AA too.

nothing to add here, AA as EDC is just perfect

Anyone with PIC programming experience here? With reprogramming kit, we can adjust whatever modes we want. The limit is only max current (230 - 250mA). I wanted to bump a bit more to 350mA but that would be unpractical with small capacity AAA NiMh and could easily fry the E17A with 10440. It can take 10440 for under a minute in max before gets very hot (both the driver and the LED), hence no recommendation.

- Clemence