Test/review of LiitoKala INR26650-50A 5000mAh (Black)

LoL fellows, sellers sell what the consumer demands! :-D

Don't be unnecessarily judgemental my dears, if there is happy people buying UltraFake UFK18650-99FK cells let them live their happiness. They may believe ignorance is happiness or sort of, which of course is bad. :facepalm:

If you wanna be certain that your cells are genuine you can also look here volchyonok: https://eu.nkon.nl

There are some first brand 18650 cells with nice price to energy density and discharge/power output ratios: LG INR18650-M26, Panasonic NCR18650PF or even the Samsung INR18650-29E.

Cheers :-)

Do you seriously believe that elements with a maximum current output of 8A or even 10A can be useful to me for such a heavy consumer as electric transport? The best out of 18650 is the Panasonic PF-2900, but they need too many pieces (in the “P”) for the 14S battery, otherwise they will soon feel something like this -

Lots of high capacity/low drain 18650’s works fine for Telsa. Even using their Ludicrous mode. So why not a bicycle?

Now they insisted on another and persuaded all reputable manufacturers to release the new standard 20700 and 21700. Ask them why it was necessary to reject the “best” 18650, especially today when there is a large selection of updated versions of this old form factor?

If I make a lot of “P”, then the battery will be even harder, and there is no room for so many 18650. In addition, 18650 does not like charging currents more than 300-500mA, so the charging process will be too long. I have already received my device with a charge current of 2A. Some people in the reviews said that this device actually has 2.4-2,5A. Such output currents will very quickly kill 18650. Even for 26650, it is desirable to use a charge of no more than 1A. For conventional (low-current) 26650, even a charging current of 750mA is generally better. And now I have 2A, so there’s not even a talk about any 18650.

No, nothing was rude at all. No apology is necessary. :slight_smile:

I was agreeing with you that the seller who sells those 18650 batteries does not sound like a good one.

We all know that capacity 18650 battery does not exist. They are fakes.

I hope you have sucess finding the battery you need… Real ones and not fakes. :slight_smile:

0K, let me get this straight and sorry if it may sound rude.

First of all, what is the e-bike target power requirement and what is the allowable maximum battery weight?

An e-bike is not a @#$%ing drill or any other power tool in which top power output cells may be required due to battery size constraints!

If I am to build an e-bike, I select a battery big enough to provide me with at the very least adequate runtime even if not charging the battery to max.

Let's say I need to power a 1000W e-motor plus management electronics. 3x 40-packs of these inexpensive cells do it with ease. 120 cells of that class means 1200+Wh of energy in 6Kg of battery weight. Even if we are to consider their discharge rate to just 8A/25W per cell (according to personal tests of received fake cells which totally look and capacity perform like these my measured average internal resistance out of 4 samples was 35.4mΩ, this is good for at least 10 to 12A given their capacity), 120 cells at 25W each cell is 3000W, and this is a conservative figure. You could power two 1000W e-motors with such a pack a still have plenty of surplus.

And with regards to available energy, ≈10Wh/cell × 120 cells = 1200Wh, this allows the e-bike to cruise at 1000W for more than an hour. This is great runtime given pack size and cost. And by the way, at 1KW you'll be cruising fast.

The Golisi 4300mAh cells are expensive and less energy dense. What's the point? Let that stuff there for vapers.

I can say this louder but maybe not clearer. Now please go spend your money in what you think/believe is best for you and know yourself. Good luck.

Cheers :-)

What they choose today is irrelevant. It could be political or financial reasons.

The fact is that the older style battery packs work well.

If you want to buy batteries based on the charger you have then that is a different situation. Why did you not lead with this info. High drain cells are the way to go.

There is no need to shout loudly, because I agree with you in many respects. Naturally, 4300x3 = 12 (Ah) and this is really a bit. According to measurements from Mooch, the total capacity may be even less, about 11Ah. Also, the elements of Golisi, even though they are among the most high-current, the recommended charge current is less than 2A (2A is the maximum allowable current for Golisi). However, although despite all my explanations above, even if this choice looks strange, the most important thing is different now. That is, the elements I ordered and paid for by the Golisi S43 26650 turned out to be authentic and not too old (expired).

2A charging current will not kill a good 18650 cell, even if average drain! They're specced to be drained safely and without much stress a ≈7+A/2½C and you think 2A is too much charging current? @#$% @ #@%$& @% &@#@%$! :facepalm:

Not because a manufacturer tells you this or advices you that those things are the only way or absolute truth in any way! They have their own interests and customer satisfaction is maybe just as prioritary as the amount of money customers make 'em earn without posing too much trouble.

Get a bigger battery at the right price per piece.

I'm done with this.

Cheers ^:)

Originally posted on Sun, 10/21/2018 - 10:54. Tiny fix.

Really? Only about 0.5C? Seems quite odd. I can not find any datasheet for the S43. I assumed it would be at least 1C.

In thinking about charge speed, you could also do the same as Tesla and drill battery packs, Etc and only charge the batteries up to about 4 volts. Just stick to the faster CC constant current type charge cycle. Avoid that time consuming constant voltage cycle that also adds extra stress to the battery. You will get much faster charging and extended battery life.

Do not just think, but I know it. High charging currents have come up with for those who have little time, but a lot of money. In addition, changing batteries to others requires not only new costs, but also a lot of time for rework. The situation becomes more complicated even when the battery is not factory-made, but self-made.
For the sake of interest, you can ask questions to manufacturers Shockli, Golisi and many others (if they answer you at all). Ask them why 18650 is not afraid of charging currents 2A (in your opinion), and at the same time for their 26650 they recommend currents in the area of ​​1A? In general, the Shockli 5500 is written about 0.5A …

It’s seems very hard to get any data sheet for these small company, rewrapped batteries. I would charge the Shockli 5500 and Aspire 4300 at 3A. I don’t care. Lol

You must be a very kind person, so you don’t feel sorry for the power from the network for these foreign batteries. But then, may I ask, why not 5A or not 10A, because it would be so much faster?

I have a Miboxer C4-12 charger. It only does 4 x 3A. I’ve had no issues with my blue and black Liitokala cells at 3A.

Probably not C8-12, but C4-12? If it is a 4-slot device, then it has the ability to change the charging currents in this way:

for nickel: 0.1А / 0.2А / 0.3А / 0.4А / 0.5А / 0.6А / 0.7А / 0.8А / 0.9А / 1.0А and AUTO
for lithium: 0.1А / 0.2А / 0.3А / 0.5А / 0.8А / 1.0А / 1.5А / 2.0А / 2.5А / 3.0А and AUTO

So, most likely, you simply use the “auto” mode or the device after each new connection to the outlet always does it on its own, but you do not switch to manual mode to independently select charging currents.

They are ahead, especially since you do not have a normal powerful discharge device with a high discharge current to assess the current state of health of the elements you specified https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/150-60-10A/32879958043.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.666.777d3c00WIQAlB

Yes, C4-12.

I manually set each cell to 3A. Sometimes it may go to 2.1A or 2.4A, etc… so I confirm 3A or else set it manually. I have no idea why you would assume I dont.

Edit: Oh, I see. You thought I was saying that charger only had one charge rate. My point was it only goes up to 3A.

My normal powerful discharge device is my modded Convoy L6 which drives a pair of them to 17A on turbo. I use it nightly at work.

I don’t know what “They are ahead” means.

Still waiting on the new blue ones.

FWIW my Black and Gold Lii-50A have been fine. All of them check test slightly over 5000mAh.

I never charge at more than 2A. None of my 26650 lights are especially demanding. (Convoy L6, Convoy BD06, Emisar D4S with 219c) The Emisar firmware limits turbo to 80%. I’ve run the D4s to thermal step-down several times and haven’t noticed any problems with the battery. The L6 draws 5A on high. The BD06 (7135 * 8) is only 2.8A on high.

Recent check of my last unused Black and Gold. It was sitting for about 10 months before the capacity test.

Aaah, you know it! What makes you know something?

Since you know, why are you asking here?

Am I smelling adamantness? Look here for the Love of God: https://www.powerlongbattery.com/battery-cells/li-ion-battery-for-electric-vehicle/3-6v-3-7v-5500mah-nicomn-battery-cell-for-evs.html

That is the official Power Long Battery page for the cell Shockli is rewrapping, and it says the following:

Charge current. Standard 0.5C (≈2.75A for a 5500mAh cell), max 1C (≈5.5A for a 5500mAh cell)

These recommendations you hear of maybe are just recommendations for Joe/Jane Sixpack (uneducated people who know no better). Shockli and his advices can suck my… bird.

Cheers :-)

Are you talking about “Chinese amps” - 17A or about familiar amps for all other countries? (I wonder how many parallel drivers in your lantern is 7135?)
This is already in the past, but earlier it was possible to find a small Chinese hand-held radio tape recorder, which was written about the power of its 1000W-2500W speakers … (lol)

And it is very good that you do not know :innocent:

Actually, these are not recommendations of the manufacturer and, moreover, in no way a guide for careful use with a long resource. This is just a guarantee that with such operation its batteries will not explode. Understand, if you took the place of PLB or some other manufacturer who needs sales, then you yourself would have written on your batteries and not such a nonsense. Moreover, the higher currents you give to your batteries, the faster you will come to the store to buy again - the main thing is sales and the money received, which allow you to survive and feed your children.
By the way, Shockli told you that his “5500” is from PLB or is it all just someone guesses on the forum?

Before choosing elements for a future battery, I dreamed of taking the batteries from Shockli (black version 5500). When the scenario “14S-3P” is 42 pieces, that is, it could be decent money. However, something went wrong and, unfortunately, it was just before my order that Shockli removed the discounts on this black model and on the black 21700, and when I asked to make an exception, then the seller from his store (woman) sent me to the choice of green “5250”, which I consider a real failure, and not the progress of Shockli. Interestingly, after my choice of batteries from another seller, Shockli returned the previous discounts on the model “5500”, so, apparently, It was not my fate to buy batteries from Shockli “and get a higher capacity (approximately 16.5Ah instead of 12Ah or even 11Ah with Golisi) :frowning:

Chinese amps…

It is right there in my signature if you want to know the answer. :wink: