Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

I don’t think so. The light uses dual gold plated BeCu C17500 springs. It’d be almost impossible to melt them even in a direct short.

I do wonder what caused the large drain inside of the ROT66 though. Is it possible the light got activated by mistake inside of a bag or something, and drained down to LVP?

I’m repeating the experiment with 2 completely different sets of three batteries in the two lights. I think the third one arrives Monday

Just to clear things up, I ran the MT70 Plus on turbo again today and it went dead. What happened was that the batteries were tripping as I was using the protected keeppowers, ncr18650ga. Yesterday I thought that after I cleaned all the contacts and tried again that it was the problem as it ran again, but no, cells just tripping. Yesterday after all the cleaning, I didn't run it in turbo so it didn't cut out. Need to order more 30Q's as I took one away and then used only three in my rot66.

Boost drivers, like in the MT70, require high voltage (minimal resistance) to run turbo modes. Any type of protected cell is going to add resistance which reduces voltage and the driver tries to draw more amperage to compensate.

You definitely want a high drain unprotected cell to keep the voltage high under load.

I just received my black XP-L HI 3A blemished one at a discount from Fireflies. If it wasn’t stated that way, I wouldn’t even notice any blemish at all. My initial lumen measurements were 5,431 lumens at 1s on freshly charged VTC5D. However, like my other ROT66 that were making low lumen output, putting a spacer between the tail cap and battery cage increases contact pressure between the battery cage and the head, which increased lumen output to 6,940 lumens!

I suggest everyone use spacers (e.g., folded napkins, rubber bands, etc.) and remeasure your lumen output. Two of my ROT66 had this issue with not enough compression at the contact point causing low output. The compression force relies on the resistance of the rubber in the tailcap pushing up on the battery cage. However, over time, the rubber gets permanently deformed and loses its elasticity so there’s less rebound pressure pushing up against the cage. For those people that leave the battery cage tightened in the flashlight for a period of time, retest your lumen output. I’m pretty sure it is a good amount lower than when it was brand new.

I like the tint on the XP-L HI 3A alot. It is about 5200k, a very clean NW/CW and when compared next to 219B 4500k doesn’t look green at all unlike many other flashlights. However when shined on actual objects and not just white walls, the 219b 9080 still does a far superior job at color rendering. The XP-L HI runs cooler though.

I have my three rot66 stand by for 5 days after fully charged…

Rot66 aux mode ( med ). 4.17 v

Rot66 aux mode ( med ). 4.14v

Rot66 aux mode ( high). 4.17 v

Sorry to hear some of you people have a high drain stand by…

You can change the brightness on the aux leds? How do you do it?

I borrow the light from skylumen. Ask him.

With a screwdriver.

There are Phillips-head potentiometers on the aux LED board.

Someone had it drain three full cells in a few hours. Whatever was wrong, it wasn’t any regular sort of standby drain. It’s probably a short of some sort.

after further testing, the batteries are fine after 7 days in the light. after the voltage dipped below 4.0v it dropped like a rock and red leds came on. the batteries were at 3.16v

I have my three rot66 stand by for 9 days after fully charged…

Rot66 aux mode ( med ). 4.16 v

Rot66 aux mode ( med ). 4.13v

Rot66 aux mode ( high). 4.15v

The ROT66 standby drain should be between ~0.03 mA and ~0.70 mA, depending on the exact model and configuration of the light. At worst, it should take at least a year and a half to drain three 3000 mAh cells.

So… if something drained them in under a week, there’s something else wrong.

Out of the box, are the aux led’s bright enough to walk around a dark room with? What if the potentiometer is cranked up?

No, but they are on the D4S

I will get FF to look into it.

My ROT66 didn’t have Aux-LEDs, but my D4S has. When the D4S aux-LEDs are configured to “High” mode, they’re nearly as bright as the main light on the lowest “Moon” mode (maybe 1 lumen or a bit less)? Certainly enough to walk around a dark room with.

I wonder how the ROT66’s Aux-LEDs look like (does it also have a Low and a High mode?)

The D4S aux LEDs go from about 30 uA to 1000 uA, on low and high. This is controlled by the firmware.

The ROT66 aux LEDs go from about 200 uA to 600 uA, ish. This is controlled by a screwdriver.

Ordered one “glued”, as it was going to be a gift.

SST20 4000K

All emitters come on when the light is cold. as soon as it heats up one emitter shuts off. And then another one starts giving up. So after a few seconds on turbo, two emitters are off.

FF definitely need to step up their QC game :weary:

So this has turned into a test of the FF 3-year-warranty/customer support.
Sent them a mail three days ago, no response yet.

PM him on here. I had a cosmetic issue with one of mine and Jack went out of his way to do anything he could and there was nothing he wasn’t willing to do. This was just recently.
I’m sure he just overlooked your email with all that’s going on.

does that only happen on turbo? Like normal ramping it’s fine? Always the same two?