Can anyone comment of the weight difference between the aluminum version and the copper version? Banggood says they both weigh 60g. I doubt a slightly longer battery tube on the aluminum version can make it weigh the same as the copper head 18350 version.
Also, has anyone measured the lumens on the Nichia version S43? With its reduced battery contact resistance, it must gave higher output than the 1600 lumen used in the S42.
Thanks for the clarification.
I believe the D4 also uses duty-cycle throttling on the Nichia versions, but as you note, it is a different light, with different contacts, etc.
I do have some Emisar springs, I was thinking of using one on the driver side, if it fits (and if I buy one of these). I have other options for the tailspring 
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The S43 18650 black tubes are on preorder now for only .99 each at BG. Someone here got to them and we thank you for it 
Nice, but I think Iād rather pay $3.29 to get the S42 tube which has knurling on it. There is something about the that smooth tube that I donāt like.
You should try holding one, that is if you havenāt already. I like the knurling on the prior version s as well, especially the stainless steel editions, however these torches are so small that you canāt help but hold the tailcap and body tube at the same time. Itās not slippery when dry, maybe only slippery when wet. ;). Remember the newer tube is longer than the prior tubes. Even if you donāt use protection, I find it easier to load and tighten a battery even if itās just a comfort thing. I like both options.
BG lowered the shipping to almost nothing as well since itās a preorderā¦just saying itās probably the best time to pick these up that there ever will be without padding the order, at least for us in the states.
I was not planning to get it but 99c 18650 tube swung the deal :person_facepalming:
I canāt decide between aluminum or copper, CW or NW. :disappointed:
Jason I have several S41 and Manker E14 models with and without the copper heads and steel and Aluminium bodies. . The 18650 battery tubes in Aluminium pretty much level them out in weight distribution front to back. With the 18350 itās a noticeably heavier copper head. With the 18650 tube the weight is still up front however you wonāt feel it unless you balance it for grams. I prefer the copper heads myself.
Is it just because of the weight distribution or is there something else you prefer about the copper heads? Cheers.
@JasonWW, that is an easy decision.
1. Get copper for better heat dissapation and sinking.
2. Get the NW Nichia 219C version of course. 90+CRI, NW, and better tint means the 219C version is better overall.
You have to try it. I guarantee youāll like it!
Thermal conductivity and a shiny exposed, fat slab of copper! Yes please.
Okay I went for the copper Nichia version. It seems the light will be ready Oct 31, but the 18650 tube not until Nov 10. I wonder if they will ship them seperate or hold until they can ship it all together?
Iām also assuming this light uses the common 20mm triple quad mcpcb that lots of places carries. If I donāt like the nichia, I can always try something else. Maybe even a different optic.
This is a quad
It using itās own quad optic. Sadly it is smaller than carlco 10602 quad and bigger than a triple 10507 so nothing will fit perfect. The astrolux optic has 22mm diameter. The easiest way is to fit a triple because MSPCB is 20mm and the glass will hold it down or you need to reflow different leds to the factory MCPCB.
You know what I mean. 
lol
Special optic? Oh man. I was really hoping to buy a bunch of different ones to try out. The few Iāve seen I didnāt like the beam pattern.
Sorry itās late
For the 219c I get 1700 at max ramp, 3000 turbo
Turning the light on ramping straight to min and turning straight off disables the power button light until next use?
If you havenāt yet, you need to read up on the Narsil interface. Itās fairly intuitive, but there can still be questions like yours that are answered in the documentation. Unfortunately, I donāt have a direct link. But if you search around BLF, Iām sure you can find it yourself. (sorry)
Whenever you ramp up or down and release the button it will blink once to indicate itās using the 7135. It will blink twice to indicate itās using the FET.
There is a little glitch/feature where if you turn the light off during these blinks, the switch light will stay off until the next time you turn the light on again. This is not documented. Itās just something that was noticed.
You can also go into to the settings to turn the switch light off on a more permanent basis if you prefer.
Wondered if it was a glitch, the button feel in general is pretty w4nk. Hit it from an angle and nothing happens, hit it too lightly from dead on and nothing happens.