Occam’s Razor, baby, Occam’s Razor. :laughing:
OMG u bought 19 .
No wonder it got sold out quickly:-(
I ordered 3 times and all got cancelled. Luckily 4th time I snatched one without battery
Ya know what else I like about this Cometa 2016 design?
No GD crenalations to poke my nutz or tear up my pockets.
I like smoooooooooth, baby.
Women’s are like that way too compared to us hairy apes. :laughing:
I ordered 2 - 1A and 3C.
1A was delivered with the ring.
3C was delivered without the ring in a very old package and with a lot of labels one on each other.
On a support they wanted to give $2 to find it in my country. I said your country is bigger so find the ring and send me. After that I recieve full refund.
Few days later I put the ring from 1A and… driver works 10x quicker than it should, the tailcap disconnects the circuit 10 times in one minute and finally the 3D diode appears to be 1A…
So I put again the ring to the original 1A and all works great.
PS. ‘3C’ was delivered enabled. They put battery when tailcap makes circuit and did’t see the low light…
PS2. I hate 1A. I can sell for the price from BangGood. But shipping costs will be high so that has no sense. Or maybe someone lives near me? PL,ZS
I like Hank’s Post #1570 solution to this potential problem. It conveniently knocks out 2 birds with one stone. IMO the less pressure in certain areas the better. Tape-type insulator material generally is significantly thinner than other type washers and does the job just as well.
Again, if you’re not comfortable messing around in these areas you can always lock out current with your tail cap until ready to light things up.
PS….The positive driver spring white plastic-type washer that should’ve come with your Cometa should be kept there mainly for the case where the positive battery end is larger than usual. Most batteries typically don’t have an overly large positive anode. This thicker type material than the tape mentioned above is appreciated due to its toughness.
Prolly not a bad idea to put a little dab of silicone type adhesive to this washer for further assurance that it inadvertantly doesn’t fall out when changing batts, etc. But of course this isn’t absolutely necessary.
Bought one, at that price why in hades not. Inserted a cell and found moon mode doesn’t work, meaning it’s enabled but the emitter just doesn’t light. No problem, who needs moon mode in a zoomy anyway. Disabled moon with no issue but wanted only four modes so tapped like heck and got into configure mode and clicked when it flashed the fifth time and now it’s stuck in turbo mode only. Tap all I like, can’t get back to configure mode. Guess I’ll need to replace the driver.
if I recall reading it, someone did a ‘reset’ and it fixed some problem like yours. Or default? Worth a try. Best!
- is default reset
Appreciate the thought but I can’t get to number eight if I can’t get to configure mode. Probably just re-flash the driver with STAR or something.
Just the usual problems with the X5/X6 driver, when driving an LED hard.
With a clickie switch interrupting the power, and totally inadequate decoupling or holdup of the MCU, plus the FET/LED switching spikes it was always a recipe for disaster.
Once the memory is corrupted, it’s toast, unless you re-flash it. A shame, because it could have easily been possible to detect that the non-volatile memory had become corrupted, and re-set it.
And even if you can re-flash, the same thing could happen again, at any time.
There are simple hardware mods that can fix all of this, if you are handy with a soldering iron.
See my post over in the other thread.
The centering ring may not put pressure on the MCPCB (or only via the wires / solder joints). If you wiggle on the leads from the driver side, check for movement of the emitter.
Mine also had some lead particles from soldering under the MCPCB and consequently dents. I recommend cleaning everything.
Man, just one T18 thread is enough. Now two threads to look for info.
Of course anyone can start a thread, just that you mentioned T18 original thread.
Ah….
Thanks for the incisive tech talk. Btw what are those simple hardware mods from your perspective?
PS…In light of what Tom Tom has said here and reflecting on what others have experienced I’m glad now that I didn’t have time to mess around with the UI modes. I kinda had a hunch to wait and see if others got consistent results before I started choosing this and that mode configuration of the apparent 8 modes available.
So here’s just a copy and paste of my post # 676 of T18’s thread for those that just wanna stock simple reliable light that works every time in a way that’s expected……
“Ok. So again how come apparently I’m getting #7 of the BG erroneous list?
Getting it by……
Tail cap unscrewed half turn (Or even 1/4 turn unscrewed. Whatever floats yer boat. Extra unscrewing to say half is extra insurance of it not coming on accidentally during for instance rigorous activities.)
Screw tail cap in. Tail cap lights blue.
Full click to on. Get moonlight.
Half click (momentary press actually is a better term IMO) 6 times to turbo.
Then again this may not be # 7 of BG bad list to begin with but is part of the corrected modes? This is all confused up me thinks.
IDK….
PS…Oh and if I continue to half turn or so tail cap after it goes into turbo it strobes, half turn again appears as a beacon, half turn again stuttering strobe, half turn again back to moonlight, half turn again right back to turbo.
Now if I do a half turn screwed in without the tail cap blue lit, I get moonlight, then unscrew half turn, then screw in half turn again, I get right to turbo.
I like to keep this kind of flash while in a jacket pocket for example with tail cap disengaged at all times btw. Just me. The main reason is that I like moonlight to come on first especially on new moons. So with this arrangement without messin’ around with the clicky (and it making noise) and using the tail cap instead it goes right to turbo which is what I want for throwing and mega flooding.
Also I now have the option if I want to “ramp up” the increases that can now be done with silent momentary presses. Likewise momentary switching to get ramping decrease right back to moonlight and ramp up gradually to turbo again. IMO the true forte of this rig is immediate full power when ya want/need it. Finesse when ya don’t. Standard desires, right? The tail is your friend. Kinda like a twisty zoomie. No pussin’ around.” :laughing:
Lumens is lumens. Lumens make money. So follow the money.
No, because I don’t have it yet due to Canada post deciding they don’t wanna work anymore.
Do ya have the Post #? That’s a big thread to sift through.
Here ya go:
YMMV if your centering is of the older type (alu). May have different dimensions.
18650 adaptor is junk it is way too small . Instead I rolled up cardboard round an18650 cut to size and shoved it in the body . Just making sure the battery canslide up and down . On th body I added lots of small orange rubber bands it adds grip and running two thinrubbernands in every other groove gets rid of some of the head wobble... looks cool all up and down the body too ... 3 minute 3 cent mods
Thanks, Kikko. Nice work and the pics are appreciated.
I bet it does look cool. I’ll have to scout around for some bands to give it a go.
PS. Since I tend to be a 26650 junkie, I sometimes Glad Bag those loose fitting adapters like what came with the Cometa. Othertimes I vacillate between the 26650’s and 18650’s but don’t wanna mess with a semi-perma sleeve like you did so I just wrap the 18650 with two appropriate sized o-rings (top and bottom portions) and that’s my quick and dirty Magiver adaptor solution to loose fitting sleeves - which indeed suck bananas. Now the Cometa adapter works as it should.
Here’s what I use……
https://www.harborfreight.com/397-piece-metric-o-ring-assortment-67580.html
Specifically for most of my 18650’s I use the #112 size outta this great bargain of a kit. When ya slide the o-ring batt into the adaptor the top O-ring will tend to slide to about mid-point of the batt. The bottom o-ring will pretty much stay put as you installed it. Either way ya now got plenty of support in the adaptor with the batt nicely snug (yet still removable) and pretty much centered as it should be.
You can go with the SAE kit too and just find the o-ring that fits your batt best.
A must kit to have IMO for lots of other applications. The organization of the o-rings is great, the quality box, decent quality nitrile-grade rings, and of course the ridiculous low price is absurd. You’ll wonder how you ever went through your flash life without one. :laughing: