Who can figure out how to use these 95CRI 3000K massive emitters

OK So I still have some 95 CRI 3,000K massive

10+mm emitter
11.44 pad

on alu plate, looks like you can run wires right to pad so any substrate should work. I also have big massive alu heat sinks that were designed for them. (the (heatsink) finned thingys below only. I no longer have complete lights just emitters/mcpcb/heat sinks) heat sinks are 45mm across

I hear they run on about 30VDC but may run well on other voltages near this number, should be 1,000-1,250 lumens at those factory numbers

any interest?

would love to work with some one to build me some simple single mode drivers

not full lights just from the fins up. also have a few TIR and outer plastic 5 inch rim to hold TIR but many folks may want a more custom application

I searched and couldn’t find anything. It will be interesting to see what comes up here on these.

Czech out the MIC2298 boost converter. 6bux for a 10pak on AX.

Delivers up to 30V output, switches up to 7W, etc.

Didn’t look in too much detail, but datasheets abound.

Might not deliver full power if it’s pushed to extremes, but it’s a start.

Here, go crazy…

Lightbringer wow excellent,

Except I can read about half of the pdf and understand about half of that. so it look like a chip that can be used to make a driver. not a drop in driver its self.

Correct?

If building from scratch maybe we should spec up to 45V or 35VDC and then adjust from there. Maybe I can get Djozz to put one on his magic machine and tell us what they can do?

But to be clear, Thank you an excellent start.

Yeah, you need the inductor, diode, caps, other stuff in the schematic to make it work.

You want 1-mode, just off’n’on, so that’s easy. It works when it’s powered, doesn’t when not.

The maximum output of the beastie is 30V or so, so if the Soraa chip needs more’n that, it won’t work. You said “about 30V”, so I’m hoping it’s even 28V or so. 32V, and the chip itself might purposely say “nuh-uh” and limit its output to 30V, maybe lighting it up, but only dimly.

Actual drivers with all the stuff on the board already would be a specialty item, doubt they’re made except maybe to power a ~30V COB from, say, a 12V halogen supply.

If you have/had access to a light of about the same wattage, but works from a 12V halogen supply, you could probably scavenge the board out of that.

’Though a halogen that’s supposta run on a nominal “12V”, AC and DC, and over a range of, say, 9V-15V, they’d probably be using 6V COBs with a buck driver, not ~30V from a boost driver.

If someone wants to prototype one, there are probably adapter boards that’d let you surface-mount the beastie onto the board, then use other solder-pads to connect to, say, a generic perfboard. Unless someone wantsa go crazy and make an actual pc board for it.

Bump for folks who can think of a way to use these in flashlights

  • What power source do you want to run the driver from?
  • What form factor does the driver need to be?
  • Clicky or e-switch?
  • Are you looking for the driver to have LVP, temp protection, etc?

Simple current controlled boost circuits are a commodity item, so depending on your goals there may be a ready-made solution.

Here you go. HBFlex Product Information That is similar to the driver I used to power a COB in the BLFGT. If your SORAA LED is the larger one of the two ( I think yours is) they take about 33-38v to power. I cant remember exactly it’s been a while since I messed with one. Make sure you read the documentation at taskLED closely. The min/max and heat sinking requirements are important to follow.