Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

Love this C8F hope the new throw version with single LED and bigger head. :heart_eyes:

(sorry pict to big have to adjust)
!!

Did you grind down the stainless bezel? What tools if so

No it is stock bezel and grind with grinding stone cost nothing but 45 Min time.

The C8F with 21700? There was a whole thread Tracy started, get it from Amazon via code, PM her to ask for it.

Just got mine today, charging the cell as I type. ~33bux for the kit, ie with light/cell/charger/cable. And from Amazon, so you get it in a week vs a month.

(Shouldda tried for 2, but had hinky things with coupons before. Ie, try for 2, can’t get it, retry for 1, “you have already used this coupon…”, balls…, so I decided to play it safe.)

And I can’t believe Utorsh has its own version out there. Flash sale at GB, 30bux without the kit. :smiley:

Them pir8s must’ve been working fulltime on it…

Oh, Mikey seems to be located in the US. I thought he was from some little country I’ve never heard of where Aliexpress was the only choice.

…and even then, not even. :stuck_out_tongue:

Yeah, does kinda bug me when someone (not Mikey, even though I got nfi where Uppuwhatever might be :smiley: ) asks “Where to get XYZ?”, people chime in, then 40 replies later, get “Oh, I’m in Lower M’Botho, and Amazon/GB/AX/anyone doesn’t deliver anything here.”.

Ummm, so put it in yer profile, or say so beforehand, maybe?

Anyhoo, yeah, ’twas a nice deal. Think I wanna get another one. :laughing:

I just heard back from Tracy that this is a legitimate product that they made for Gearbest.

I wonder if there’s any changes at all (firmware driver, the varying lumens due to varying tailcap current between samples…), other than the logo/branding?

I don’t see the point in measuring lumens at 0s only. It’s only for a split second, doubt we ever see that number other than in a lumen tube or similar.

I always measure at both 0s and 30s as it gives a more realistic rating. Also shows if a light can handle the heat

I measured at 30s too but i didnt wait for light to cool and i wasnt sure if it started stepping down.

It’s not that interesting of a spec unless the light can hold turbo for a few minutes IMO.

I just swapped out the older driver with Sofirn’s replacement driver and measured it with both Samsung 40T and 30T and got 2,870 lumens at 1s. Basically no difference at all :frowning:

Check if the driver ring is making good contact like Jason noticed on his? Solder blob or shim it if not. I would probably redo the spring bypasses too with 20g

First of all, we can’t expect a 920 lumen boost just by going from an 18650 to a 21700 battery. Sofirn seems to have overrated it at 3500. A more accurate rating would be 2900 to 3000 lumen.

I wonder if there was nothing wrong with the original FET? Maybe it was just a bad connection with the driver retaining ring?

When I swapped my FET, I of course retightened the retaining ring. I saw 2 extra amps at the tail. I assume this is from the new FET.

With the Sofirn battery:

Stock driver about 7.2A at tail
After FET swap about 9.3A at tail
Later I measured 7.7A
I fiddled with the retaining ring and got 9.6A

So did the new FET help or was it just the retaining ring?

At 9.6A I was getting about 2900 lumen so that is about all that can be expected. Let’s say 3000 lumen at Turn On.

Yours seems to be performing pretty close to what I would expect. Only 300 lumen less at Turn On with the 30T. Try messing with the retaining ring to see if you can get a few more hundred lumens.

I can see your results are inconsistent. The VTC5D is a good high drain cell. I don’t think it should be 400 lumen less. All 3 of your tests should be about 3155 lumen. My guess is it’s the retaining ring. Get it tight.

If you want an extra 200 to 300 lumen boost, try swapping the led wires to 18ga. I was seeing 3300-3400 lumen with this change.

Upgrading the driver spring bypass wire might squeeze a bit more.

Ps, I see in my notes that the driver retaining ring had a little bit of glue on the threads from the factory. Maybe this glue residue is hurting electrial contact?

I wasnt trying to compare difference between 40T and 30T. The replacement driver did absolutely nothing. I couldnt fet tje reflector out to replace the wires. The reflector is glued tight. I will try playing with the retaining ring

Just in case you missed it the reflector is screwed in. Take out the driver and its dead center in the shelf from the underside.

oh you’re right. Oh well, I’m too lazy to redo it now.

Neither was I. Sorry if I gave you that impression.

Hmmm the ramping on this is weird.

If I double click to Turbo I can’t hold to ramp down, I first must click to return to previous mode or press & hold switches it off. If Turbo is reached through ramping then it behaves as expected. Also while on Turbo any additional double presses causes a drop and fast rise to turbo again. It shouldn’t do anything if already on Turbo.

Very annoying

It’s seems to be designed to give a smooth ramp up to turbo over a second or two when double clicked. There’s not much of a need to double click if you are already ramped to the top, so that shouldn’t be an issue. I do prefer an instant jump to turbo. I’m not sure why they did this.

I haven’t tried to ramp down after double clicking to turbo. I guess I haven’t needed to. I usually use it at a lower level, then double click to turbo for a very short time then single click back to the memorized level.

No UI is perfect. If it’s really bothersome, Lexel should be offering some 21mm drivers soon. A 20mm will fit if you modify the retaining ring. Then you’ll have some other UI options. :+1:

I guess it’s not too bad, just took a bit to get used to after using the Q8. On the NarsilM you double click to Turbo and can ramp down from it.

I imported the new C8F to sell so wasn’t sure what to make of the double click flickering at Turbo.

What’s the red stuff they’ve covered over the solder on the driver for the switch wires?