When i got the Sofirn Q8, there are 2 sheets of instructions, same as the BLF Q8. The one with the diagram/table/sort of flowchart thingy and the one with heckloads of words and sentences and some tables. Not sure what is meant by cheat sheet though……
I thought it might be prudent to mention that Sofirn was kind enough to help me out getting another Q8, this one is slated to become something quite different than was originally intended. I will, of course, keep y’all informed as this little plan of mine begins to unravel.
When i got the Sofirn Q8, there are 2 sheets of instructions, same as the BLF Q8. The one with the diagram/table/sort of flowchart thingy and the one with heckloads of words and sentences and some tables. Not sure what is meant by cheat sheet though……
The cheat sheet is small and thin and meant to be folded up and stored under the tail cap of the Q8.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
I use flashlights in a work and security frame of mind. I’ll say it again, when an intruder is coming through a window at 3AM, the at-start lumens is the critical moment. He’s not going to wait around looking at the light expecting it to stabilize in 30 or 40 seconds. And hence, turn on lumens. I also build complete monsters with massive current draw, the cells fall extremely fast so a 30 second read has many of my lights quite depleted. Like measuring a direct drive XM-L2 light on a 10440 cell.
I do include a 30s reading a good deal of the time, for those that have come to expect it.
Take my Meteor M43 for example, it has 4 cells in parallel and I’m using Samsung 25S cells with 2500mAh capacity, so that’s 10,000mAh on tap, but I’m hitting them with a 58.8A draw for nearly a 6C discharge rate. The cells don’t hold up long.
People don’t like to accept my numbers. Most people don’t take the time to modify a light like I do, while it’s not hard it can be time consuming to attend to all the minute details. My lightbox has matched or been lower (seldom higher) hundreds of factory ANSI readings. LITERALLY over 500 lights! So I don’t doubt my light box. Can’t stress enough though, every one of our light boxes is for our comparison use to mod lights with, none of them are going to directly compare to each other. I get very nearly identical readings as robo819 who has the first P-Trap box manxbuggy1 and rdrfronty built. I get very nearly identical readings to Richard at MTNElectronics, his box was also built by these 2 brothers. Tom E’s as well. But all of us have different multipliers as the boxes were built at different times, but calibrated with similar lights. (25 or more with quality ANSI numbers, most expensive lights from top names)
If I knew where there was a big expensive sphere to check against I’d drive up to TA’s and do side by side readings on his box then go check on a factory sphere, but I don’t know of such a piece of equipment anywhere in this area. Would like to do it, be great if someone came up with a big company that was willing to help us out.
I’ve heard all this so much for the past 4 years or so that I’m about ready to just say “It’s bright!” and leave it at that…
Guess that’s what I’ll do with this Q8 I’m about to build. 12 Samsung LH351D in 80 CRI 5000k with 4 XP-L HI V3 3A in the center. A “44 Mag” Q8. Should be bright.
Manxbuggy1 and his brother, rdrfronty, came over a little while back and rdrfronty had the 25,000 lumens Fenix (I think that’s right). Interestingly enough my light box recorded it almost exactly at the factory ANSI specs. But of course my modified Meteor at 18,940 lumens is questionable. It’s also too hot for Anduril, causes it to glitch and shut down at about 15 seconds. So in this case, as in some others, a 30 second reading is just not possible.
Everyone that see’s this M43 is staggered by it’s output, to a person they are all amazed that you can’t even look towards the ceiling due to the intensity. (I ceiling bounce to light the room so they can see the impact of it’s power)
It’s along these lines that I intend to build this Q8, only with 4 extra emitters in the XP-L HI variant for some center downrange punch. [The Meteor has 4 triples, hence M43, this one will have 4 quads, so Q8 44 MAG, an acronym for Most Audacious Guffaw, lol ] Yes, 16 emitters vs the 12 in my Meteor. This Q8 will have a new “head” piece carved from a bar of 4” 6061. I expect upwards of 24,000 lumens in this light. All the needed bits are either here or en-route… the carrier style extension tubes will be most welcome when they become available.
Guess that’s what I’ll do with this Q8 I’m about to build. 12 Samsung LH351D in 80 CRI 5000k with 4 XP-L HI V3 3A in the center. A “44 Mag” Q8. Should be bright.
I wonder how far this will get once you get ahold of the new q8 extension tubes…just thinkin’…4p2s or let’s say 4p4s (actually no idea if that works)…with 4x XHP70.2 driven hard to their limits….must be some kind of “atomic flash” when you hit the button.
Guess that’s what I’ll do with this Q8 I’m about to build. 12 Samsung LH351D in 80 CRI 5000k with 4 XP-L HI V3 3A in the center. A “44 Mag” Q8. Should be bright.
I wonder how far this will get once you get ahold of the new q8 extension tubes…just thinkin’…4p2s or let’s say 4p4s (actually no idea if that works)…with 4x XHP70.2 driven hard to their limits….must be some kind of “atomic flash” when you hit the button.
My minds eye just flashed a vision from “Back to the Future” of the wildhaired guy flashing out of sight!
(snip)
…… I’ll say it again, when an intruder is coming through a window at 3AM, the at-start lumens is the critical moment. ….. (snip)
What’s the Contingency Plan if the massive lumen burst does not deter the the intruder at 3 am & he keeps coming… in a blinded state of course???? Need I even ask…..
I’m betting it has something to do with possible ‘lead poisioning’.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
(snip)
…… I’ll say it again, when an intruder is coming through a window at 3AM, the at-start lumens is the critical moment. ….. (snip)
What’s the Contingency Plan if the massive lumen burst does not deter the the intruder at 3 am & he keeps coming… in a blinded state of course???? Need I even ask…..
I’m betting it has something to do with possible ‘lead poisioning’.
In this case it might be considered LED poisoning!
Well, you’d better be off somewhere else at 3:07AM if the demon infests your house and neither 10.000 lumens nor Mr. Smith‘n Wesson can help you out...
Talking about security and blinding an attacker, you can try this yourself. Try to look at your Sofirn Q8 from a distance of 1m, strobe or 100% ON, it’s extremely deterring. You’d need at least a 100k cd value on the target to truly have any excellent chance to prevent an attacker from advancing towards you, such that he’d need to put his hands in front of his face and not have direct sight on you holding the flashlight. ie effectively blind.
That lux value on his face plus a reasonably big sized hotspot as you’d be in a panic situation so no extreme throwers please.
Try out the effect yourself with your flashlights.
Actually you don’t need flashlights, you can just try it by looking at the sun during summer.
A 100% beam or strobe would be fine.
You should be armed with some pepper spray or longish stun gun. Don’t need lethal weapons.
Of course if the perpetrator has a pistol or worse automatic machine gun so that he could spray in the direction of the light, then all bets are off.
Thank you JasonWW for the pictures.
There was no cheat sheet in the package of the Sofirn Q8?
I don’t think so. Maybe someone else can say for sure.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
When i got the Sofirn Q8, there are 2 sheets of instructions, same as the BLF Q8. The one with the diagram/table/sort of flowchart thingy and the one with heckloads of words and sentences and some tables.
Not sure what is meant by cheat sheet though……
I thought it might be prudent to mention that Sofirn was kind enough to help me out getting another Q8, this one is slated to become something quite different than was originally intended. I will, of course, keep y’all informed as this little plan of mine begins to unravel.
Is it a THICC extended Q8?
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
The cheat sheet is small and thin and meant to be folded up and stored under the tail cap of the Q8.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
How does yours manage to get such a high stock rating? Mine is only 4700 at stock using 30Q’s & 5030 with a bypass. Measured with the TA Lumen Tube
Djozz measured 4700 lumens too
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
He’s not using a TA Lumen Tube. He has a Manxbuggy Tube. It has no diffusers and is calibrated differently.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
Aha! Now I know where to stick it.
No seriously, that one was also in the box, albeit a bit large to fit under the tail cap.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
And Dale measures straight at switch-on because he finds the first blast the relevant number to record
link to djozz tests
the short link to the cheat sheet download is:
http://bit.ly/narsil-cs
choose this file
NarsilM CS v10 Q8 2017-11-23
Djozz has a video where it belongs
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1153587#comment-1153587
(sorry, we haven’t found a way to store the reading glases in the Q8)
I use flashlights in a work and security frame of mind. I’ll say it again, when an intruder is coming through a window at 3AM, the at-start lumens is the critical moment. He’s not going to wait around looking at the light expecting it to stabilize in 30 or 40 seconds. And hence, turn on lumens. I also build complete monsters with massive current draw, the cells fall extremely fast so a 30 second read has many of my lights quite depleted. Like measuring a direct drive XM-L2 light on a 10440 cell.
I do include a 30s reading a good deal of the time, for those that have come to expect it.
Take my Meteor M43 for example, it has 4 cells in parallel and I’m using Samsung 25S cells with 2500mAh capacity, so that’s 10,000mAh on tap, but I’m hitting them with a 58.8A draw for nearly a 6C discharge rate. The cells don’t hold up long.
People don’t like to accept my numbers. Most people don’t take the time to modify a light like I do, while it’s not hard it can be time consuming to attend to all the minute details. My lightbox has matched or been lower (seldom higher) hundreds of factory ANSI readings. LITERALLY over 500 lights! So I don’t doubt my light box. Can’t stress enough though, every one of our light boxes is for our comparison use to mod lights with, none of them are going to directly compare to each other. I get very nearly identical readings as robo819 who has the first P-Trap box manxbuggy1 and rdrfronty built. I get very nearly identical readings to Richard at MTNElectronics, his box was also built by these 2 brothers. Tom E’s as well. But all of us have different multipliers as the boxes were built at different times, but calibrated with similar lights. (25 or more with quality ANSI numbers, most expensive lights from top names)
If I knew where there was a big expensive sphere to check against I’d drive up to TA’s and do side by side readings on his box then go check on a factory sphere, but I don’t know of such a piece of equipment anywhere in this area. Would like to do it, be great if someone came up with a big company that was willing to help us out.
I’ve heard all this so much for the past 4 years or so that I’m about ready to just say “It’s bright!” and leave it at that…
link to djozz tests
Guess that’s what I’ll do with this Q8 I’m about to build. 12 Samsung LH351D in 80 CRI 5000k with 4 XP-L HI V3 3A in the center. A “44 Mag” Q8. Should be bright.
Manxbuggy1 and his brother, rdrfronty, came over a little while back and rdrfronty had the 25,000 lumens Fenix (I think that’s right). Interestingly enough my light box recorded it almost exactly at the factory ANSI specs. But of course my modified Meteor at 18,940 lumens is questionable. It’s also too hot for Anduril, causes it to glitch and shut down at about 15 seconds. So in this case, as in some others, a 30 second reading is just not possible.
Everyone that see’s this M43 is staggered by it’s output, to a person they are all amazed that you can’t even look towards the ceiling due to the intensity. (I ceiling bounce to light the room so they can see the impact of it’s power)
It’s along these lines that I intend to build this Q8, only with 4 extra emitters in the XP-L HI variant for some center downrange punch. [The Meteor has 4 triples, hence M43, this one will have 4 quads, so Q8 44 MAG, an acronym for Most Audacious Guffaw, lol ] Yes, 16 emitters vs the 12 in my Meteor. This Q8 will have a new “head” piece carved from a bar of 4” 6061.
I expect upwards of 24,000 lumens in this light. All the needed bits are either here or en-route… the carrier style extension tubes will be most welcome when they become available. 
Dale, if you carry on modifying more and more Q8s people might call you "Mr.Q8" or maybe just "Q" as in James Bond.
They can call me what they wish, as long as they don’t call me late for supper.
(this will be my 5th Q8, I’ve done maybe 40 ×6’s… just sayin.)
I wonder how far this will get once you get ahold of the new q8 extension tubes…just thinkin’…4p2s or let’s say 4p4s (actually no idea if that works)…with 4x XHP70.2 driven hard to their limits….must be some kind of “atomic flash” when you hit the button.
My minds eye just flashed a vision from “Back to the Future” of the wildhaired guy flashing out of sight!
Dr. Emmett L. Brown?
So I should be using SS and a food processor?
I’m betting it has something to do with possible ‘lead poisioning’.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I have arranged for Mr. Dick Casull to talk them into leaving the premises. He encourages them to leave peacefully, in a horizontal position.
As do a few other of his peers…..
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
In this case it might be considered LED poisoning!
woulda thought light saber, maybe?
or burning laser like The Andromeda Strain
Well, you’d better be off somewhere else at 3:07AM if the demon infests your house and neither 10.000 lumens nor Mr. Smith‘n Wesson can help you out...

Talking about security and blinding an attacker, you can try this yourself. Try to look at your Sofirn Q8 from a distance of 1m, strobe or 100% ON, it’s extremely deterring. You’d need at least a 100k cd value on the target to truly have any excellent chance to prevent an attacker from advancing towards you, such that he’d need to put his hands in front of his face and not have direct sight on you holding the flashlight. ie effectively blind.
That lux value on his face plus a reasonably big sized hotspot as you’d be in a panic situation so no extreme throwers please.Try out the effect yourself with your flashlights.
Actually you don’t need flashlights, you can just try it by looking at the sun during summer.
A 100% beam or strobe would be fine.
You should be armed with some pepper spray or longish stun gun. Don’t need lethal weapons.
Of course if the perpetrator has a pistol or worse automatic machine gun so that he could spray in the direction of the light, then all bets are off.
Anyone that breaks into your house in the night is a deadly threat and should be treated as such
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
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