In theory, the X5/X6 muggle mode should not help because the led is still driven at the same very high current that the led can’t handle, with the PWM only switching it on/off fast. In practice, part of the why leds perform lower at too high current is heat, and that is reduced when the led is PWMed, so you will see an improvement (i.e. PWM-ing an angry blue overdriven led will in general improve the tint).
But much much better is reducing output by actually lowering the current.
Thanks for explaining. I was hoping the PWM voltage going up and down fast that LED current can’t keep up and average out at lower level instead of pulsing let’s say 6A on the LED.
The XR reflector is optimised to handle emitters with a smaller footprint and a smaller die.
Usually, emitters in de C8 have a 5050 footprint, like the good old XM-L(2).
Unfortunately the switching of the leds themselves is extremely fast, but the capacitance of the circuitry has more influence on the switching speed. You can add a capacitor to smear out the PWM, but the needed value is so high that the capacitor will be too big to fit inside your flashlight. Below is something I found on The Internet, it is an answer to a similar question, it short, our PWM speeds are way too slow to smooth the PWM current inside the led:
It’s a Qx9920 buck controller with a Vfb of 250 mV. Lowering the sense resistance to around 60mR should give you 4A.
There is some overhead as described in p.7 of the datasheet, you’d have to measure C_off for exact values.
But I’m not sure if the FET is up to the task, can’t find anything with that marking (00A? OOA?).
I don’t see the circuitry necessary for true CC as advertised. It’s probably just a buck with the output PWMed.
So if one were to direct drive a dedomed XPG2 S4 2B and then taking the same battery (also fully charged) and direct drive the Osram KW, which would have higher lux?
Hmmm… Very small inductor for a 100µH…
That will probably be a bottle neck, will get hot.
Tiny FETs too… Could be okay though.
You can slap another R160 sense resistor on top of the R160’s (which are probably parallel) to up the current.