Unfortunately the switching of the leds themselves is extremely fast, but the capacitance of the circuitry has more influence on the switching speed. You can add a capacitor to smear out the PWM, but the needed value is so high that the capacitor will be too big to fit inside your flashlight. Below is something I found on The Internet, it is an answer to a similar question, it short, our PWM speeds are way too slow to smooth the PWM current inside the led:
It’s a Qx9920 buck controller with a Vfb of 250 mV. Lowering the sense resistance to around 60mR should give you 4A.
There is some overhead as described in p.7 of the datasheet, you’d have to measure C_off for exact values.
But I’m not sure if the FET is up to the task, can’t find anything with that marking (00A? OOA?).
I don’t see the circuitry necessary for true CC as advertised. It’s probably just a buck with the output PWMed.
So if one were to direct drive a dedomed XPG2 S4 2B and then taking the same battery (also fully charged) and direct drive the Osram KW, which would have higher lux?
Hmmm… Very small inductor for a 100µH…
That will probably be a bottle neck, will get hot.
Tiny FETs too… Could be okay though.
You can slap another R160 sense resistor on top of the R160’s (which are probably parallel) to up the current.
Ordered 5 of them.4 are immediately going into a (jetbeam T6) with the stock driver.
I’ll post results in this thread in about 2 weeks. Anyone wanna take a guess what 4 OW,s will do in a 80mm ish T6 housing, Lux wise?
I just finished installing a the older Olsen flat black with MTN fet driver running 2P pani/3400 in a astrolux MF02. As far as hot spot intensity goes. It seems more intense then my BLF GT on a white wall 100 yards away. Going bonkers with properly centering this tiny led. Anyone wanna guess what this light will do, lux wise? once i get it properly centered? The MF02 reflecter is a fairly ringy and simply a poor quality reflector. So I’m not expecting anything amazing here.
The answer is it depends on used battery. Anything in Samsung INR30Q class is not good for White Flat cause they will pull from 7-8A in DD mode significantly downgrading lux performance.
With White Flat you want to stay somewhere at 5.5-5.8A current draw. So use Sany GA, LGBD1, or any other low current cell that will not pull more than 6A out of emitter.