OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

How do you know when it shipped?
Do you get an email saying it shipped?

I only got an email saying that the order is ‘complete’ 10 days ago, and haven’t heard anything since.
Hopefully that means it was sent out.

Yeah same here just the order complete email. As long as it shipped I’m cool.

So if one were to direct drive a dedomed XPG2 S4 2B and then taking the same battery (also fully charged) and direct drive the Osram KW, which would have higher lux?

:+1:

The white flat because it has much lower forward voltage.

Hmmm… Very small inductor for a 100µH…
That will probably be a bottle neck, will get hot.
Tiny FETs too… Could be okay though.
You can slap another R160 sense resistor on top of the R160’s (which are probably parallel) to up the current.

PoS driver. Its sense voltage is ridiculously high, Vsense = Idrive × Rsense = 2.8A × 0.08Ω = 224mV, which is awful. Stand aside… :facepalm:

Cheers ^:)

"Completed" means shipped, and if you chose registered mail, tracking number should be also mentioned it that mail.

Ordered 5 of them.4 are immediately going into a (jetbeam T6) with the stock driver.

I’ll post results in this thread in about 2 weeks. Anyone wanna take a guess what 4 OW,s will do in a 80mm ish T6 housing, Lux wise?

I just finished installing a the older Olsen flat black with MTN fet driver running 2P pani/3400 in a astrolux MF02. As far as hot spot intensity goes. It seems more intense then my BLF GT on a white wall 100 yards away. Going bonkers with properly centering this tiny led. Anyone wanna guess what this light will do, lux wise? once i get it properly centered? The MF02 reflecter is a fairly ringy and simply a poor quality reflector. So I’m not expecting anything amazing here.

No… Enderman is not quite right here.

The answer is it depends on used battery. Anything in Samsung INR30Q class is not good for White Flat cause they will pull from 7-8A in DD mode significantly downgrading lux performance.

With White Flat you want to stay somewhere at 5.5-5.8A current draw. So use Sany GA, LGBD1, or any other low current cell that will not pull more than 6A out of emitter.

I thought 4.5A is the sweetest?

It depends on how good your heat path is. If your reflow is done well with enough but as little as possible solder, on a DTP board that is thermally well mounted on a good heatsinked flashlight body, then 5.5A to 6A may be the sweetspot. But if everything is less perfect, this led (small die, high heat) is very finicky about that and will have its maximum performance at lower current.

bought 3 of these leds from Led4power

put one in my 2016 cometa

meters went from 800 to 1216m, it’s like a laser!!

measured 4.5A at the tail

Thanks djozz. Is there other test chart done by you or others? I think we should update first post with link or chart.

I only know of my own test and led4power’s test, and they are both in the OP.

To me, judging by the graphs i’ve seen, it seems to be the maximum reasonable current.
Above that you hardly gain any output.
It will age the LED faster and mainly more heat will be produced.
Vf will also be higher.
The difference between 850 and 950 Lumen is not worth it i.m.h.o.

Except that this led is exclusively about throw. It has no great tint, a low CRI, a bad efficiency compared to bigger die leds. The reason to use this led is throw, also that last bit, and you want to be as close to max as you can without killing the led.

You should only do this if you only use it for a few seconds at a time or the flashlight is very large and never gets warm/hot. As soon as the flashlight becomes warm, the LED will overheat when driven at it’s absolute max (who’s was measured when cool).

In my kind of led-test the led was already pretty much warmed up when arriving at max. But my tests give no clue whatsoever about the lifetime of the led.

I get the dragster attitude, i get the fun of that, but it’s just not my attitude.
I want my lights to be able to work on full output for a long time, and if possible, with decent efficiency.
With this low Vf of the ‘White Flat’ this can be achieved while still having amazing throw.
I will not win the light meter candela race, but i wonder if the difference between 850 and 950 Lumen will be noticeable by human eyes.
In fact, i’m thinking about running them at 4 Amperes maximum actually.
It will have to wait for now though, i’m busy with the BLF scratch build.