I have not measured that yet, and it will indeed not be impressive, I will do the measurement this evening.
Lux-Perpetua was just saying the earlier model driver has the switch built in to it. Assuming the new model is the same (since they don’t appear to have altered the lights appearance) I would say modding potential is low.
.
They price is nice but they use SMO with 50.2 wonder what the beam will look like ?
It’s capable of looking real nice if properly focused. Same for the 70.2.
It’s the older versions, the xhp50 and 70, that will gave a definite donut shaped hot spot with an SMO.
We will just have to wait to see if they made it look nice.
Jason, is that switch pcb supported in the driver bay? Looks typical of the kind that has slots in the driver bay for the vertical pcb to fit into… makes it very robust and immune to those with deep press desires. 
Yes I got that, I’m saying I will be designing my own oshpark boards based on the 1+n+FET design to run anduril. I like this style driver project with the vertical daughter board, I did a driver for my Nitecore c6r with switches (and indeed conponents) mounted on the daughter as well as the main board. This particular design looks especially robust and I can’t wait to get into it!
That was your picture from post #1 of this thread.
My SP33 has had a resistor change on the driver, see What did you mod today? - #4800 by djozz , and after that mod I sliced and fine sanded the 4000K 90CRI Samsung LH351D. The output is about half what a low CRI XP-L would put out, and the throw with a XP-L Hi would even triple. All sacrifices for the nice tint.
Numbers on highest setting
Throw 24 kcd
Output 680 lumen
Current 3.5 A
CRI hotspot 92.6
CCT 3454K duv –0.0008
I just got the new SP33 which came with a 5500mah 26650 battery. I can’t find out much about the specs of this battery. Has anyone tested it? I am assuming its a rewrap of a standard battery but just wanted to find out a bit more.
Some wrappers list it as 5000mah and some as 5500mah. 5000 is the “correct” capacity. I think people have measured it in common chargers as being about 4700mah. I know Sofirn has said it doesn’t draw high amperage like a Liitokala blue or black, etc… It’s internal resistance is probably higher than average as well.
Can someone provide a link for the R100 resistors? I have looked for these in the past and had minimal luck. Mouser is one place I believe but to find them seems a little difficult.
Why is 5 minute turbo timer setup on 3 ampers?
Driver not have temperutre step down protection?
Thanks for the data. Usually shaving the dome makes it more green but in the LH351D’s case, it actually drops the DUV? LH351D is known for it’s yellow/green above the BBL tint and Maukka and several people posted it requires a minus green filter to bring it down to the BBL. About how much lumens did you lose by shaving? You got me thinking about shaving the 4000k LH351D in my M43. I can’t stand the green tint. But I’ve never shaved any emitters before.
If I remember well, I lost 20. That is a lot! And not something I can easily explain, i.e. dedoming the old Cree leds costs you much less, around 10.
I will try one more LH351D shave one of these days for a T2 mod and do the sanding/polishing as thorough as I can, perhaps that improves the output a bit (if it does, tint will be affected too).
This is for the xpl version of the light? I would just order 20+ each on ebay. Get some R080, R100, R120 and R140 and call it a day. Then you are stocked up for all types of mods.
So, guys, I actually ordered the light now, with a 26650. Going to be my first 26650 light 
Will be replacing the LED with a Nichia 144AM 4300k for some high CRI creamy goodness. Good thing it has an OP reflector.
Before assembling my Haikelite MT01 back with the 144AM last week, I tried with a smooth reflector. The donut hole was not happy…
Anyway, I put the OP reflector back on, and everything was fixed, with no tint shift.
Hopefully, it’ll be the same as with the MT01.
Mine has a smooth reflector, beam profile is excellent! (XP-L HD emitter on an Alex Wells copper DTP board)
(Had to start counting, I THINK I have 23 lights that use the 26650 cell. )
I have a very slick looking Lumintop SD26 that is very appealing, has a powerful internal charger, all the bells and whistles, but frankly, I like the output and beam profile of my Sofirn SP33 better. I think I have 8 Sofirn lights, all nicely done, no complaints. 
(oops! make that 9, overlooked the 9 emitter SF34 SRK style light)
For $18.83/ea I picked up another pair of these guys for Xmas gifts this year. Originally I hoped to use FW3A’s for the purpose but obviously that’s not happening lol.
I really like the 1x26650 side switch form factor and the intended recipients are my buddy and my uncle so I don’t think there will be any issues like when my wife doesn’t like “any of those big lights” (26650 lights) lol.
I just ordered on myself. Is it more neutral than cool?