Quite possible, might explain a few things.. :D
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Redesigned rotary switch contact board.
So, after thinking about the contact board further I realized it had a design flaw so I made a new board :FACEPALM:
The contact points should have minimal space between them to minimize LED flashing effect when changing modes.
Start again, I cut out & drilled a board from the FR4 same as before.
The red circle shows where the sprung brass contact corresponds.
This time I decided to make a small wedged shaped copper piece to help me mark out the contact points on the board, the little hook catches in the centre hole.
Holding the copper marker in place I score the kapton tape with a scalpel blade, move it to the next section leaving a thin gap and repeat then take out the unwanted trace lines and place the board in the ferric chloride solution again.
After a few minutes the board is removed from the solution, cleaned and the remaining kapton removed.
This is a far superior design to the original, I think ;)
Soldered the contact enclosure posts in place and filed down, sanded & polished the brass centre bolt.
Soldered the brass bolt in place using the M4 nut tightened on the other side to keep it straight then soldered on a 10mm x 8mm x 2mm neodymium ring magnet which fits around the head of the bolt, this will be the negative cell contact.
Anti-surge 1% tolerance resistors soldered onto contact board and holes drilled for vias.
The resistor values are: 1R, 3R3, 15R, 180R, 820R to give five main modes, there will also be another direct drive connection which will double as the neutral charging unit connection.
First test of the rotary switch :-) :THUMBS-UP:
The switch can start from the highest mode or lowest depending on which way it is turned.