TK's Emisar D4 review

I have been seriously considering epoxying a neodymium magnet to the end of my D4, but after carrying it for several months there have not been a lot of times I would have used it. Perhaps someday . . . Also would want to know what the appropriate epoxy / attachment type material would be to get it right the first time.

I have done ok with 5 and 30 minute epoxy. I am looking for disk magnet same diameter with maybe a hole in center.

I have a disk with a hole, but smaller diameter than the bottom. I can see where same diameter would be nice, as it would not reduce the stability of tail standing.

From the Abstract —- with my additions….

The study results indicate that LED blue-light exposure poses a great risk of retinal injury in awake, task-oriented rod-dominant animals. The wavelength-dependent effect should be considered carefully when switching to LED lighting applications …. when you buy torches for your army of working rats. :student:

Not sure what that has to do with Emisar flashlights, since the 30s the D4 will stay on turbo only presents a risk if you point it at your face. Does make me feel good about preferring warmer tints like the 4000k XPG in my D4, 4000k XPL in D4S, and the new oddball Nichia 219D in the Folomov 18650S. I don’t know anything about the D, but wonder if it could handle D4/D4S currents better than the C. The Folomov seems to be putting 5A-ish through it.

3000-4000K definitely blunts that blue peak, 4500 on up it still dominates (some guesswork, the bins on Cree’s graph are really wide)

Any ideas whether the XP-L HD emitter offered in the D4S will find its way into the D4 lineup?

The XPL HD doesn’t fit the optics of the D4. Never heard of an HP-L.

Now I’m curious what kind of raunchy thing I said. Generally I keep things pretty G-rated (or PG) around here.

About a shortcut to moon though, hold from off. Let go after half a second, and it should stay at moon. If you want it to remember that level, ramp up a little then back down, and it’ll remember. The memory isn’t really “last-used level”, but rather “last-ramped level”.

Thanks, TK, I was having an elder moment and being slow to get up to speed with the UI. As to that other matter, I seem to remember it having to do with working wood, and maybe a reference to sandpaper…

My bad, should say XP-L HD. The one listed by Intl-outdoor as a new D4S option.

I’ll fix the typo.

Yeah, I wondered why they were going for the HI, with it’s (somehow) reduced output instead of the HD. I thought it was to add a bit of throw, though trying to do that to a D4 is kind of… well, it’s just a floody light with any emitter. But I think the HD won’t fit without some manual trimming of the dome. The D4S uses a completely different optic. If the HD had been available when I ordered my D4S, I probably would have gone for it. Then again, the white-wall tint profile of the HI is so much nicer.

I was late to the party with the D4, having just received mine. I am struck by how much I like the 3A tint in comparison to 1A or 3D. The 3A looks like a more neutral creamy white and makes me wonder why we hadn’t seen it more widely available sooner, as well as causing me to be curious what a 2A tint looks like. Any body else find the 3A a big step up in the right direction?

XP-L HI produces a cleaner beam with more throw and better tint consistency. It’s powerful and it looks good.

XP-L HD produces somewhat more lumens, but it’s diluted across a wider beam so it doesn’t look brighter. It looks dimmer instead, and the tint is less consistent across the beam.

Nichia 219C provides good tint consistency and CRI, at the expense of being less throwy and generating a lot of heat.

Nichia 219B would make the nicest-looking beam of all, but it isn’t really available any more and it makes the fewest lumens by far.

LH351D can make a lot of lumens and also comes in high-CRI varieties, but it’s extremely floody and I haven’t found any which don’t look green.

XP-G2 is a pretty decent compromise choice, with decent all-around performance and relatively low cost, but it does not excel at anything in particular.

The emitters I’ve had the best results from are XP-L HI and Nichia 219B. It depends mostly on whether I want throw and performance, or if I want the most beautiful beam, but both make pretty nice-looking beams.

3A is just like 3D, except about 250K colder. I like both, but I like 3D a little more. I’m pretty happy with 3A, 3D, or 4A.

Typically, the “A” and “D” tints are the ones which look best, and the choice of which one depends entirely on what color temperature you prefer. This chart shows where each tint bin is in the spectrum:

TK, what do you think about nichia 319a 5000k with carclo 10623?

I don’t really think anything about it, because I haven’t tried it. It’s not something which had even crossed my mind before.

Have you had an opportunity to use a sample of the D4S with the XP-L HD emitters?

I haven’t bought my D4S yet, but it’s on the radar and I want to choose the emitter I’m going to like best.

If compare XP-L vs LH351D, which one generating a lot of more heat?

Ordered some disc magnets to epoxy onto the tail.